Workin’ On It: Iris Shorts #2

So.  The shorts.  Ladies.  Muslin #2– still too small in the waist, and I’m getting this weird pooching out below the waistband in the back (forgive me– I can’t bear to post a photo on the internets).  I’m starting to think that part of the problem is that these are meant to sit a little higher than they do naturally on me.  I thought this could be a rise issue (maybe I have a low rise?  A high rise?  I don’t even know what the proper terminology is…), but when you look at the only photo that shows the rear view on the model, you can see that they’re a little… wedgified?

Excuse me, miss... your butt seems to be eating your shorts.

So yeah.  Maybe they’re supposed to sit like that, but I can’t really deal with that, so I think I will have to cut a size larger in the waist and somehow taper it at the sides (so the hips won’t be way too big) without screwing up the way the rise sits.  Sigh… like every project I’ve embarked on lately, these shorts have plunged me into a swirling abyss of fitting hell. OK, maybe that’s a tad bit dramatic, but sheesh, can’t a gal make anything a barrage of baffling fit issues?

40 responses

  1. aw no that sucks – the pouching out below the waistband sounds like what my rtw jeans do on me if i’m not wearing a belt to keep the waistband up where it should be ;-) have you tried sitting on a chair and measuring from it to your natural waist? thats your rise. From the look of the pattern and what Sarai said about them being like the Clover trousers I think they’re meant to be pretty high waisted – maybe try adding length into the rise so that the waist sits higher on you?

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  2. I think that as we get more experienced, we have little patience for bad fit, and are thus more driven to correct it. (Remember being excited when things just fit well enough?) And honestly, patterns really aren’t supposed to fit everyone right out of the package – it’s a miracle when they do. I have to do a muslin for almost everything. It’s frustrating, but my clothes look much nicer on me than they used to.

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    • You’re right– it used to feel like a success to have something that kinda looked like a shirt! Recently I’ve started noticing fit issues in other people’s garments– I was standing behind a lady in church yesterday and was totally distracted by the swayback adjustment she needed!

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  3. Girl, you crack me up! I love your sense of humor!

    I agree with adelaideb – the more we know how things are supposed to fit, the less we can tolerate it when they don’t! But I think – if you’re going to do a bigger size for the waist, I wonder if you could leave the hips as they are and use a drapey fabric, and then get a kind of ’40s tap shorts look? That was the first thing that popped into my head.

    I will say that Hubby bought me Pants for Real People last week, and although I haven’t read it yet, it looks like it’s going to have some good info. Might be worth the $17 and the amount of time it will take to read the section to correct what you need to correct.

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    • That’s a good idea– the fabric I have is a linen blend, so it may actually be drapey enough on its own to pull off that look. I may have to pick up Pants for Real People– I’m so lost when it comes to pants fitting! I feel like I don’t even know how to diagnose the problems, let alone come up with a solution! I ordered a copy of The Complete Photo Guide to Perfect Fitting yesterday and I can’t wait for that to arrive– I know there’s a section on pants, so maybe that will help, too.

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  4. Oh no! That’s really too bad.

    I agree with the consensus above. The longer we sew, the pickier we get! That, of course, means its going to take longer to work out each pattern to get it just the way we want it. Frustrating but, it will give better results in the long run. After some time, we should be able to look at a pattern and know just how to tweak it so, we’ll speed back up eventually. :-) (I’m also telling myself this – I’ve had several fitting issues recently too!)

    Hopefully, you’re new book will arrive soon and have the perfect solution!

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  5. Wedgified. Too funny! I know what you mean – sometimes I think I would be happier if I fussed a little less over fitting. I’m sure I read on Tasia’s blog recently that she makes shorts in a pattern size above her size which does seem like a good idea.

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    • Ooh, good tip! I just looked that up– she said she goes up two sizes so the shorts hang on her hips rather than higher up. Maybe I am a teenybopper or something, but I don’t think I’ve ever worn shorts anywhere near my true waist. Maybe that’s why these shorts feel so weird.

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  6. Eich…. I really feel for you. The shorts are so cute, but fitting issues can be so darn troublesome – and upsetting! If it all gets too much… try the sweet shorts. I had very minimal (read: easy to fix) fitting problems with them. I find that all Colette patterns require hard-core fitting to get right on me! But are worth it when you finally hit the mark… :)

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  7. Oh no! Bad fit is the worst. I haven’t mustered up the courage to return to the Clover after a bad fabric/bad fit fiasco, and I totally agree with poppykettle — Colette Patterns (which I love love) are so hard to fit on me. Lately I’ve been a big fan of just slashing the pattern and spreading until it hangs nicely on my dress form the right way. I know you can’t do that with shorts, but it sounds like you need just a bit of fabric in just the right place. Perhaps a bit more width at the bottom of the rear crotch curve. I find I also have to change the curve itself or lower it. In shorts/pants, comfort in this region is EVERYTHING.

    Good luck! Looking forward to seeing these pretty things when you’re done.

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    • I think tonight I’ll lay these out next to a pair of pants that fits well to compare the crotch curves. It will probably be helpful to have a point of comparison! Thanks for the pointers!

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  8. I feel for you! I finished mine this afternoon and let’s just say that underwhelmed. Nothing hugely disappointing but there are some minor sewing problems and some minor fit issues that I’m having trouble separating from.
    I agree with the others – the pooch under the waistband sounds like a rise problem. I had this happen with the pattern runway shorts and taking some of the length from the front rise solved it.

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  9. I’m sorry to hear (but sort of happy to hear) that I’m not the only one with fit issues for Iris. I’m having trouble figuring out how to get the 12 waistband into the 10 or possibly even 8 fronts and backs. I also noticed the back rise was perfect in the 12 but the front rise looked awful. Putting on my muslin last night for the second time I started to doubt that this pattern is meant for me. However, if I wait long enough some genius (probably you!) will figure out how to work out all these issues and help the rest of us. Right now, it’s in time-out.

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    • Yep, it’s pretty confusing! I’m not really sure how to make alterations with a curved waistband– it’s sort of tricky! I bet you’ll be able to work out your problems– don’t give up! :)

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    • I feel like I’m at a point in my sewing where I’ve progressed enough to notice when the fit is off, but I don’t have enough skills in my arsenal to diagnose the problems. Ugh! Thanks for the good wishes!

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      • Yep, that’s where I am – I *know* there’s something up but don’t know how to fix it…gah, all my problems have been with tops and dresses, I might make some trousers cos I used to get them right……

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  10. I think the general consensus is that pants/shorts are the most terrible thing to fit. I know they’ve made me want to throw my fabric across the room on multiple occasions! And yet, here I go, finding myself starting the process once again…

    I do agree that it looks a little weird from the back. I’d probably be tugging on them nonstop.

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  11. This is a really interesting post and thread. I have yet to attempt making shorts, but I was intrigued by the Iris pattern, particularly the adorable front. But what’s kept me back is exactly this “wedgified” look in the back. I’ve been thinking of trying to combine the Iris front with Burda’s Ruby shorts. There are a bunch of people who have sewn this project, and the pictures look pretty great on most of the models, which I think says a lot for a shorts pattern (considering the difficulty in fit). Basically, I love the front details of the Iris, and the butt of the Ruby. Looking forward to reading about your progress.

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    • I love the look of the Ruby shorts, too– I bookmarked that pattern right before the Iris shorts were released. I have to admit that I haven’t been that impressed by Burdastyle patterns, so I was worried that I would spend tons of time making adjustments to something that would never be wearable (probably an unreasonable fear).

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  12. I’ve had similar problems with my iris. I’m kinda a rectangle shape – wide waist, not much of an increase in hips, and now I think flat low seat – man that sounds so unflattering!. I had similar pouching of material across the back when I graded a size 10 out to the waistband size I needed. I spent a lot of time thinking it through and have now removed the darts (which smoothed things out) and taken in the side seams to probably a size 6-8. Only the top of the waistband needed to fit my waist – the bottom edge was too big giving extra fabric around my hips and front so when sewing the side seam on the waistband I increased the seam allowance at the bottom edge making the seam straighter, if that makes sense. Best of luck with yours.

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    • That makes perfect sense! I think that’s exactly what the problem is for me– I have basically zero “junk in the trunk”, so to speak, so the curve on the waistband isn’t really necessary for me and leaves excess material to poof out. Thanks for your input!

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  13. I’m so sorry! That really sucks when something doesn’t turn out. May I suggest something? If these bad boys are suppose to sit higher than you want and the but looks like it’s eating the rise, why don’t you use the pattern that fits your waist and hip measurements, slash and close through the front and back pattern to reduce the rises (so it sits lower on waist) and the reshape/scoop the back rise to give it more fabric (so your butt doesn’t eat your pants lol). Just a suggestion my lady.

    Oh, and happy happy Friday. I left you a little blogging love on my site so be sure to head on over and check it out :)

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  14. I am not going to add any more advice, but needed to laugh with you on your photo caption. Love your sense of humour :-)
    Good luck with these shorts. I feel with you- for some reason I have got a number of pairs of shorts/ trousers lined up to make, yet these are the only 2 things I’ve made inthe last 12 months that I am not happy with. Why oh why?!!

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  15. I FEEL YOU! Everything I make lately has some crazy fit issue that I just can wrap my head around. It’s definitely a case of the more you know, the more you know you don’t. And striving for perfection.

    I get that pouf in RTW bottoms, because in order to fit my hips, the waist is always too large, and belting it in creates a bunch. But you have slim hips. Pants/shorts are weird.

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    • BLERG. Not my favorite thing. RTW pants never fit me right, but this one is kind of weird, because I usually have gaping in the back waistband because I can’t squeeze my butt and thighs into pants with a waistband small enough to fit me, so kind of the opposite of my usual issues… ick!

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