Yowza! It’s cold out here, people! I am not on board with this weather! I left behind snowy New York this week for the even-more-frozen tundras of Vermont. I am NOT excited about the cold, but I AM excited to finally show you my new jacket!
This is the Style Arc Romy Anorak pattern, and it’s my January project for the Mood Sewing Network. I’ve been working on this thing for what feels like the entirety of my life. OK, it was closer to 2.5 weeks, but between the RTW details, winging it and adding a lining, and attempting to decipher the illustration-less, minimalistic instructions, this one was a real marathon.
First things first: this pattern is super cool and I adore the style, but it’s NOT for the faint of heart. There’s absolutely no hand-holding here– the instructions offer helpful advice like “Make belt loops and attach them”. They don’t tell or show you how to do this, the pattern piece (one single long strip) doesn’t give you any details, and the placement markings for the side front belt loops aren’t on the pattern piece, so you have to measure/eyeball to figure out where they go. That’s pretty much par for the course here. This is at least an intermediate pattern– I would really only recommend it to a confident sewist who doesn’t mind figuring things out on her own. It didn’t help that I strayed from the instructions and added a lining. I had to completely change the order of operations to accommodate that, but it was worth it (unlined jackets are kind of pointless in my climate).
OK, some more pattern details: it has raglan sleeves with darts at the shoulder, which I haven’t seen before but is a nice detail. There are tucks right above the hem in front and back, and elastic is inserted in the hem so you can cinch it in if you like. The zipper is hidden behind a fly guard, which feels very RTW to me. If you’re not familiar with Style Arc, their patterns come in a single size. I wasn’t super stressed about this because I’m pretty close to a straight size and this isn’t a very fitted style. I made this without any alterations and the fit is roomy, but works for the style. If you make this yourself, check the zipper and button placement and make sure it works for you. I followed the diagrams for zipper and fly guard placement, but it feels backwards to me– when I try to button up the collar, it’s really awkward and hard to do.
ARRRRGGHHHHHH CAN’T GET BUTTON ASGSKOSDIFHGAJDKLFJKSJDGFXDKFLJDFK
While I’ve really been digging the trend of slouchy anoraks that all the cool Brooklyn babes seem to be wearing lately, I’m not super into the ubiquitous olive green that seems to be the only color these jackets come in. Instead I opted for a nice medium gray cotton twill. I love twill– it’s my go-to fabric for hard-wearing, good-looking garments. I love how it looks when it starts to show some wear and tear. Because twill weaves fray easily, I serged all the seams, even though they would be hidden under the lining. It’s a nice precaution to help extend the life of your jacket. I topstitched all the seams with a twin needle (OMG, WHY WAS I SO SCARED TO USE A TWIN NEEDLE?! It’s stupid easy!), which gives it a RTW look and also adds some stability.
You get the idea.
Since I’m the world’s biggest wimp, I added a lining made (mostly) from buffalo check flannel. It’s so warm and cozy! The sleeves are made out of black bemberg rayon– I get nervous that I’ll rip my lining putting on the jacket if the sleeves aren’t slippery! Since brushed fabrics have a tendency to pill over time, I made the lining with the unbrushed side of the flannel facing out. It’s still beautifully soft, but should stay in great condition longer. I basically made a second version of the shell and basted it to the neckline and center front before stitching on the collar and fly guard. I made a booboo when I was cutting it out and forgot to add a CB pleat in the lining, so after consulting the experts (the Twitter sewing crowd!) I cut a strip of fabric the length of the back bodice and stitched it in, so no harm no foul. The lining pieces were all cut at the hem line, so I just pressed the hems up over the lining, enclosing all the raw edges. I fell stitched the facings and inner collar down with about 488,135 teeny-tiny stitches… my finger and thumb are still sore!
The pattern calls for the pockets to be made with a box pleat that’s stitched down all the way. I wanted the pocket to expand to hold tons of stuff, so I used an inverted pleat that’s only stitched 2″ from the top and the bottom, so it can sort of bulge out. I find it annoying to iron under all the seam allowances when I’m making patch pockets, so I opted to line them instead. I cut a second pair of pockets out of the plaid flannel, stitched them together at the sides and bottom, then turned them right-side out, turned under the top seam allowance, and edge-stitched all around. This makes for nice, neat pockets, plus my hands will stay warm in happy flannel-lined pockets! We allllll know how much I love flannel-lined pockets! (Sidebar: Can someone please make sure my coffin is lined in flannel? Oops, got a little morbid there… but still– MAKE IT HAPPEN).
Moving on…
I wanted this to look very clean and RTW, so I used brushed antique nickel jeans buttons from Taylor Tailor that I had in my stash, a matching separating zipper, and two faux metal toggles at the CF hem. I’m really pleased with the way they look! Oh, and if you want to get in on the jeans button fun but aren’t sure where to start, here’s a great tutorial from Taylor’s blog (spoiler alert: you get to use a hammer! In the end I discarded the belt loop pattern piece and just followed this great tutorial from the Coletterie— you don’t have any raw edges, and you don’t have to turn a loop!
In the end, I’m over the moon about this jacket! It’s just exactly my style! Isn’t that the best thing about sewing? It took forever to make, and even though the pattern was frustrating, it’s so rewarding to sew something that you can actually get away with wearing day in and day out, and that you’ll love wearing all the time! While I’m thinking about it, if you want some serious jacket inspiration (and envy!), check out Kelly’s gorgeous Minoru! It’s stunning!
What are you guys sewing these days? Are you sewing for the season, or jumping ahead to the next one? As much as I dislike winter, I’ve still got some cold weather items on the docket to sew before spring sets in. What about you?
Ginger Makes... 
So I just saw this on the Mood Sewing Network this morning and to say I’m impressed is an understatement. E v e r y t h i n g about your new Style Arc cotton twill jacket is spot on! How did you do it?
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Thank you, Sarah! I sort of fumbled my way through it! I think your blog is one of the first places I saw Style Arc patterns, btw– thanks for the introduction!
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Hey, you finished it!! Looks really nice AND very warm! Love that you chose lumberjack coating for the insides! 🙂
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Thanks, Katja! I’m a not-so-secret admirer of lumberjack style!
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Wow… I’m speechless… the amount of innovation and customization you did to a pattern that has minimal instructions at best.. it looks incredibly professional and immaculately constructed – I’m blown away 🙂 I love the fabrics and notions you chose, and I love that it has a fuzzy lining and yet still looks chic – bravo, bravo I say!!!! *golf claps*
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Thank you so much– you’re way too kind! I’ve been sold on fuzzy linings since I found a RTW jacket several years back that’s a tailored blazer made out of sweatshirt fleece– it really looks professional until you’re up close! Secret sweatshirt! So now it’s always my goal to look put-together on the outside, but be cozy on the inside (although I don’t always pull that off, hahaha).
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Holy cow, I’m impressed! I stand in awe of your fortitude–especially since jackets are still foreign territory for me. The gray was a good choice.
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You can do it, Jenny! Anyone with the fortitude to make as many buttondowns as you have can TOTALLY do a jacket! I bet it would take you less time to sew a coat, start to finish, than you spent on your Archers combined.
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My God, this is the best jacket EVER! And you were so thoughtful about every step of the process. I really love the checked lining and the choice to line the sleeves in bemberg rayon! The look of the whole thing is so professional and you look great in it! Yippee! 😀
One question (because I’m also working on a jacket with patch pockets) – when you lined the pockets and then edge-stitched them to the front bodice, how did you make sure the lining fabric didn’t show on the front? (like peak out from the sides accidentally) I’m having issues with this. 😦
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Hey! The trick is to cut the lining pocket a little smaller (1/8″ is usually enough) and then it should pull to the inside once it’s stitched. Then I sort of force it under with the iron if there are any stubborn bits still trying to poke out. Good luck!
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Oh awesome! Thank-you!!!
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Hope that works! 🙂
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i also just finished a jacket that took longer than expected but came out exactly how i wanted – i feel your pain AND enthusiasm! 🙂 this jacket is totally perfect for you, i love all of it. great job.
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But it was worth it because your jacket turned out so cute! PLUS you got to save some special fabric, so that’s win-win! 🙂
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If I have a bad day I just need to look at your blog to make me feel better! I’m in love with your personality 🙂 And oh, very pretty coat!!! And cosy hmmmm
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Oh, thank you, Lelie! I hope you’re having a good day today!
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Wow, you are such a pro! I’m amazed at how great this looks. All the added details, the perfect style for you, the construction, I’m in awe! Amazing job 😀
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Thank you, Jo! I have to confess that while I’ll happily spend lots of time on details, I rush through fitting and would never take the time to perfect a muslin the way you do! In fact, I shouldn’t even tell you, but I didn’t even bother making a muslin for this– naughty!
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Fantastic job! This coat looks perfectly professional and I love the plaid lining.
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Thank you so much, Ramona! I’m looking forward to seeing your French jacket!
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Fabulous! Suits you perfectly!
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Thanks, VK! This is one of the few things that sort of works for all my work occasions. 🙂
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A-frickin-men on pockets that hold stuff! Why are girls not supposed to ever have big enough pockets to hold anything? And if you’re not a purse-type-gal you have to hand stuff off to someone else to carry. Screw that!
Ahem. Your jacket is AMAZING. Everything is SO professional!! Holy crap and that top stitching!! The only thing better is the collar-buttoning face. Great work!
Oh, and HAAAA on 2.5 weeks being a long time, sewing-wise…pffft! That’s sewing quickly!
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Yes! I agree wholeheartedly with all three of these! Nice work, it looks super pro. Lack of pockets is seriously part of what holds women back!
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Why ARE there always piddly little pockets on lady stuff? I’m a jam-it-in-my-pockets girl and they’re always bulging at the seams! Why you gotta rip us off, dudes?!
Wellllllll, 2.5 weeks feels like FOREVER when you’re sewing in basically every spare minute and all weekend long ALL THREE WEEKENDS. #addicted
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Yay! Great coat.jacket! And the grey twill is perfect. Olive is a little to military for me usually. And twin needles – I know right??? Fell in love with one while working on a knit top.
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I agree, I’m not on board with the military look. I can’t believe I didn’t try a twin needle sooner!
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gorgeous jacket, so many wonderful details – and aren’t double needles the best!
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Thank you so much! They really are! I’ll be twin-needling everything!
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Super adorable jacket and LOVE how it looks on you! So nice to spend a ton of time on something that is absolutely perfect for you, right??
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Thanks, Erin! Most of my other long-term projects don’t really get any wear, so this is a nice change of pace.
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What a great jacket. I can see this is going to be your ‘go-to’ jacket for some time…Cheers.
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Thank you so much! I really hope it will fit and last forever!
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It looks great on you, I love all the rtw details you’ve given it. And the flannel is to die for! I’m actually working on the Romy at the moment for my sister. Have to confess, I saw the instruction sheet and immediately put it back the envelope – I need pictures on my instructions! it’s going alright though, touch wood.
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Wow, you are a sweet sister! Good luck– I don’t think it was quite as hard as I thought it was, but some of the language was unfamiliar to me.
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Wow, seriously impressed!! This is like from a designer label! And you are so right about flanel lined pockets – there should be a law requiring everyone to line their pockets in flanel 😉
I’m in sewing season confusion at the moment (it’s a recognised psychological condition, you know?!) I just bought a load of white and off white summer fabrics and keep looking through winter coat patterns… There should be some therapy for this…
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Thanks, Chris! Sometimes I get distracted by the next season’s wear as a sort of wishful thinking! 🙂 Happy sewing!
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Super job – your jacket is fantastic. And in no way are you a wimp – it is C-O-L-D! Have fun in Vermont – hope you bring lots of flannel…
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Thanks, Chloe! I doubled up on long johns all week! 🙂
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Love this! I’ve been craving to make one of these for this winter… I really must find the time this year. Hope you are not too cold – our 40+ temps have finally ended and we can sleep again!
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I hope you have the time to make it– this would look so cute on you! Glad to hear the hot spell has broken. I felt so sorry for everyone I saw on TV at the Australian Open!
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Great coat!!! And half a million fell stitches? I’m impressed! I’m stitching up a muslin for Colette’s new duffle coat pattern because it’s 8 degrees in NYC today, and all I want to do is sew wool.
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Ooh, I’m excited to see that! It’s such a cute pattern, and I agree– it’s wool weather!
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This coat is freaking awesome!! I love it 🙂 I’m always scared of sewing lining and seeing yours make me want to have lining in every garment haha. Great job 🙂
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You can do it, girl! Once you start lining things, you won’t want to stop! 🙂
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It’s fab! Love the fabric, very professional
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Thank you so much! 🙂
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Wow, this is AMAZING!!! I love that plaid lining too… I also really have a thing for plaid. My plaid shirts also get lots of wear this time of year, haha. 🙂 Anyway, this looks way better than those RTW coats I’ve seen around lately, and it looks really warm to boot. So so so so so so cool! And I love that it’s not that ubiquitous olive green. Even better!
I majorly owe you an email, girl! Grad school has kept me mucho busy the last few months… in fact, I finally just got some things blogged that I stitched up before the move. Aaaaaargh. FAIL. Lol.
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Thanks, Juli! I’ve basically been living in my rotation of Uniqlo plaid flannel shirts. I should probably sew one, huh?
I didn’t know you were in grad school! What are you studying?
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Dang! This is seriously impressive, Ginger!! Everything about this looks RTW and professional – perfectly executed down to the last detail! And cosy and totally your style to boot!
I’m cutting fabric for a cape this weekend. Isn’t it nice to work with warm fabrics in such cold?
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So cool and so professional! 2.5 weeks is fast by my standards 😉
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Thank you, Silvia! It felt slow to me since I spent pretty much every spare moment on it during that time (three weekends!!!)!
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Thank you, Clio! A cape sounds fabulous and ultra-glam! What pattern are you using?
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Awesome! Very impressive!
I’m currently experimenting with block printing on fabric, so expect something on the blog really soon…
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Wow, that sounds really fun! I’m excited to see your post!
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love it! looks so warm, and the lining is perfect
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Thanks, Mokosha! 🙂
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OMG this is amazing! I love the style and it looks like it would cost a fortune to buy in a shop! So professionally finished. I’m very impressed. Plus it looks really practical in that cold weather you’re having 🙂
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Thanks, Stephanie! I wish this weren’t practical for my climate, but sadly, it is! 🙂
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The coffin flannel comment- I’m with ya, girl. hahaha!
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Bury me in fuzzy, fuzzy warmth!!!!!
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wow, Wow, WOw, WOW! I love this Sonja…you’re so talented and clever to have figured it all out alone and to have added that lining too! It’s perfect, just perfect!!!
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Haha, I lucked into good results and I probably spent as much time puzzling over the directions as I did actually sewing (no exaggeration)! I’m happy, though I’m not in a hurry to undertake another project like this anytime soon!
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Oh my gosh, I have this pattern and wanted one EXACTLY like yours, but you’ve scared the bejeebus outta me hahaha oh dear.. If you found it hard I have no hope 😐 It might have to wait for a couple of winters lol
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You can do it! Shoot me an email if you get stuck and I can try to help! I just ended up winging it on some of the stuff I couldn’t figure out, and it seemed to turn out OK.
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Only two and a half weeks to make this fabulous jacket???? Wow, I am impressed. The checked flannel lining is perfect, as is the rest of the jacket. Great job!
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Haha, I just spent tons of time during that span working on it– I don’t usually have much of a life, but I REALLY don’t in the wintertime. 🙂
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Lookin’ good! I never knew the name for that kind of jacket, so thanks for clearing that up, hehe. It’s so RTW looking people on the street are gonna be wondering where to get a gray one when all they can find is green, muahahaha!
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I’d always thought of an anorak as one of those pullover jackets that only zip partway down, but dictionary.com confirms that this is an anorak! 🙂
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I love this so much – it looks like the kind of perfect jacket you find when you weren’t even jacket-shopping and the bank balance is low… but you hand over the credit card anyway, because you know there will be serious regrets later! (Just me?!) Totally inspired to crack on and actually finish the winter coat I cut out in November…! Nice work 🙂
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Sadly, I can TOTALLY relate to that. 🙂 Happy sewing! Hope it’s smooth sailing for you!
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Awesome jacket! No wonder you are feeling pleased. StyleARC instructions aren’t for the inexperienced, but the drafting is fabulous and they pride themselves on having patterns on trend. Gotta take the good with the bad sometimes… 🙂
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They really are so on trend– I’m tempted to try some more! 🙂
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So impressed. That is one amazing jacket! Also, I volunteer to be on your flannel-lined coffin team 🙂
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I knew you’d be up for the task! Any requests for your own? 😉
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Since we’re being morbid here, once you hop into the flannel-lined coffin, can I be willed this jacket? Its gorgeous! Amazing job.
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Ahahaha, under the international statutes of Dibs, it’s yours! 😀
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What an amazing jacket! I love all the professional details — great work. Those pockets are a particular favorite!
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Thank you, Katie!
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Terrific! And I concur about StyleArc patterns. They’re excellent, but if you don’t know what you’re doing, those instructions aren’t going to do anything for you 🙂
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But the designs are all so enticing! Style Arc, you devilish temptress! I’ve found myself sneaking glances at their website over the past few days…
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Coooooool. What a great jacket- I’ll have to see if I can find a similar pattern for more beginner sew-ers.
Also, if you were any more adorable, I think I might explode. That last photo is SO cute. Teach me the secrets of your AQ (adorability quotient!)
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Maybe the Sewaholic Minoru would be more beginner-friendly? Tasia’s pattern instructions are always really clear. Kelly at Cut Cut Sew just made the awesome version I linked to in the post, and Lisa from Notes From a Mad Housewife also made a really cool adaptation.
Girl, you’re too kind! You’re pretty damn cute yourself!
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Thanks for the tips! I’ll look them up! 🙂
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Great job Ginger. I looks fantastic, like something off the rack. I’m glad you pressed on despite some of the hair pulling moments. Mmmmm flannel lined.
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Thanks, Miss Heather!
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seriously, this jacket is amazing!! What a beautiful job you did. I’m hoping to get started on the new Colette jacket soon… I need it to wear to NYC at the end of February!!!
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Ooh, happy sewing! You’ll need a warm jacket here, unlike your Land of No Crappy Winter Weather! 🙂
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This is just such an amazing jacket, from all the RTW details to the fab lining. Great job and you are stylish and warm, what a great combination!
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Thank you, Lori! 🙂
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Your jacket is beautiful. Love your fabric choices! What amazing work!
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Thank you, Olgalyn! 🙂
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2.5 weeks seems quick for such an awesome jacket! Hope you stay nice and warm in it. I should really try my twin needle – I’ve been afraid of it, too!
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Thanks, Morgan! I was a bit obsessive working on this, so it was basically EVERY FREE MINUTE for 2.5 weeks… whoops! Give your twin needle a whirl– I promise it’s easy! Just dial the tension alllll the way down if you’re using a knit, if not, normal settings are fine. 🙂
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Great make, it looks really profesh! You can go walk proud, warm and stilish, great combo!
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Thank you, Sabine! 🙂
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It’s a great jacket and looks perfectly your style – how wonderful to have the skills to create your ideal garment 🙂
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Thank you, JacqC! I’m getting a little closer… next step, tackling jeans (scary!)!
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That jacket is great! All those little details make it look so professional.
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Thank you, Emmely! 🙂
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OMG – Dude, this is freaking AMAZING.
You’re my sewing style icon! LINED IN FLANNEL! Genius!
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I wish I could line EVERYTHING in flannel!
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Wow, this is amazing. I’m about to start a really similar jacket and am more than a little scared! I hope it turns out half as well. Seriously amazing!
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Thanks, Katy! Happy sewing! 🙂
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Wow, this is AMAZING! I love all the extra steps you took and little touches you added – it really takes it up a notch. And to make this with minimal instructions! Cor blimey.
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Thanks, Elena! I had to force myself to slow down and really think things through instead of my usual sew-sew-seam rip-sew-seam rip process!
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