Hi, guys! I’ve been meaning to share the tutorial for my Colette Sorbetto hack with you for a while (see my Rambo top and my Watch This Lace top) and finally got organized enough to photograph it today! Before we dive in, let me just make it clear that I’m not a professional, so there may be better/different methods for pattern alteration, but this is what I did. Also, if you don’t already have this pattern, you can download it for free here! Got it? Allons-y!
First things first: take your bodice front and fold it back along the pleat line, eliminating the pleat.
To create your yoke, draw a straight line perpendicular to the fold line, below the armhole and above the dart. I drew my line 5/8″ below the armhole- this was a flattering yoke placement for me.
Trace around your bodice above the line you’ve just drawn, and add a 5/8″ seam allowance below this line (the seam allowance for the neck and armhole is already included in the original pattern so you don’t need to add it). Be sure to mark your fold line so you don’t forget it! This is your front yoke piece.
Next up, the bodice front! First, you need to decide how much fulness you want to add to create your gathers. For both of my versions, I added 4.5″ to the flat pattern, resulting in 9″ extra in the piece. You could add more or less- your call! But once you’ve decided, trace along the line you drew to create your yoke and continue it the desired amount past the center front/fold line. Then, draw in your new CF/fold line, making sure it matches the length of your original pattern and marking the fold on it. Next, fold out your dart and crease it so it stays closed. Then trace over your side seam, beginning below the yoke line.
You’ll notice that your side seam is slightly shorter than your center front line. Use a hip curve to gently blend the hem line and give it a nice curve. And before you cut your pattern piece out, be sure to add 5/8″ seam allowance above the yoke line!
Next, take your back bodice piece and draw a line (again, perpendicular to the CB/fold line) to create your yoke. IMPORTANT: your back yoke line needs to be positioned the same distance below the armhole as your front yoke line! It’s going to look super janky if it doesn’t match at the side seams!
Now, trace around the back bodice piece, beginning and ending at the yoke line.
Add your seam allowance to the yoke line, mark the fold line, and you’re good to go! Now, you need to decide if you want gathers on the back of your shirt or not. I didn’t add gathers to the back on mine because I didn’t want any extra volume, but you could if you liked.
If you DON’T want gathers, just trace around the back bodice below the yoke line, trace the yoke line, and add 5/8″ seam allowance above it. If you DO want gathers, extend the yoke line beyond the CB line the desired amount like you did for the front bodice.
That’s it! This is a good time to double-check that your side seams are the same length, and if they do, congratulate yourself!ย To sew, gather your lower bodice piece with basting stitches and stitch to the yoke. Press the seam up carefully, using the tip of your iron, then stitch the side seams together. Finish the neckline and armholes with bias binding as directed by the pattern. If you’re feeling adventurous, you can finish the top with a second yoke like I did for the brown Rambo version. Cut second front and back yokes, and stitch them like you’re sewing an all-in-one facing (tutorials here, here, and here). This will give you thinner straps and a lowered neckline- you can see this in my brown top.
Hope this is helpful! Drop me a line if you have any questions! Also, I’d love to see your finished top if you make one using this tutorial!
Ginger Makes... 
OK, here’s the crazy thing… I was on an airplane after camping for 8 days in Baja, surfing until I could paddle no more, wearing my Sorbetto top that I made from a vintage sheet…. Thanking my lucky stars and God for the last standby seat!!! And figuring out in my head how I was gonna do what you have just blogged about. Can this day get any better???? Thank you, thank you, Thank you. I hope this finds you having a great day! Catherine
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Wow, what a fun trip! Hope this helps you! ๐
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Thank you so much for taking the time to explain this so thoroughly. I really loved the yoke idea but not was confident to try and draft it for myself ๐
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Yay! Hope this helps!
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Thanks bunches. I really liked your Rambo version and that you faced the top yoke. Since you’ve done the redesign work for us, your version is definitely on the make list.
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Yay! Happy sewing!
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Hi, I’m fairly new to sewing so please excuse what is probably a daft question – if I don’t want to add gathers to the back either, could I just leave the back as it is? In other words, what is the reason for putting a yoke on the back? The lacy Sorbetto is lovely. Thanks
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Sure! You could leave it as is. I just added a yoke for visual interest- you can skip it if you prefer!
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I actually think this version of the Sorbetto is better than the original! Great job & thanks for sharing ๐
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Thanks, Lizzy! You’re too kind. ๐
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i went back to Watch This Lace to remind myself what your crazy ass was doing in that photo. crocodiles. ALWAYS fun.
i think this is my favorite sorbetto hack out there.
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I’m probably the only stitcher in the kingdom who hasn’t made the Sorbetto, but I’ve been thinking lately a lot about embroidered yokes, so this is just the ticket. (saves me having to draft yet another pattern for myself). Thanks ginger!
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Ooh, an embroidered yoke would be so pretty!
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Great tute – I loved the Rambo top on you!
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Thanks, Clio! ๐
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Yay! I was hoping you’d do this!
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Awesome! Took me long enough! ๐
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Woo! I didn’t know Sorbetto was a free download so thanks for that link AND thanks for the awesome hack! A+ post! ๐
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Yes! Happy sewing!!!
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Oh my goodness, I love your white version of this top, and what a fabulous tutorial! Definitely going to make my own Sorbetto hack now!
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Yay! Can’t wait to see yours!
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This is great and I think I can try it as a hack on a simplicity pattern which is a similar pattern and Damn it, I cannot think of the pattern number! Even though I am wearing a top made from it right now. X
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Gosh, pattern numbers are IMPOSSIBLE to keep track of, aren’t they?
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Ooh, loveeee!
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This is a really good idea. I love your version. Thank you for taking the time to do a tutorial.
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Thanks, Katy! I’m trying to get better about changing up patterns I’ve already made so I don’t have to spend time fitting a new pattern for every single project!
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I’m on cloud 9 Sonja—-when you posted this make via Rambo & co I was all (in my head) “dang I wish I knew how to do that!”…….THANK YOU! Now I know what I’ll be sewing this weekend. Yippee! ๐ Happy 4th!
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Thanks for the great tutorial, I love your gathered yoke version! I’ll have to try that ๐
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Thanks for sharing this – I must give it a go. I have some leftover fabric that I think I could just squeeze a Sorbetto out of. Your versions look great!
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I love your hacks! I never could get Sorbetto to work for me, but I think I’ll give your version a try!
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This is such a great pattern hack! Thanks for the tutorial! Definitely bookmarking for later ๐
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The dress looks great, I love it! Like you I have had difficulties with some Collette patterns, in the torso area. I’m not sure why given most everybody doesn’t . Wierd . Mine was with the macaron, one if the problems was with the curved middle band I finally just staightened up. Anyway, thanks for the tip on those fabrics I’ve been wondering where I could order some African style but had no idea where, now I know !
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I love this so much!! I can’t wait to give it a try! ๐
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รขยยHello From Encinitas, California! Here’s my version of “The Hack” I would have given you credit on Fb or instagram but I didn’t know what to use. I used seersucker, eyelet, and some vintage ribbon from my stash. I made my own bias tape out of the eyelet. Originally I had made some out of my favorite plaid, but when I put it on the neck, I decided it was too much, unsewed it, and then made bigger out of the eyelet. I was literally sewing bits of eyelet together to finish the arm holes. I have already had many fine compliments and I love all the textures. Thanks for great instruction! I hope this finds you having a good day.
Catherine
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Non-sewing related, but I love finding fellow Whovians by small references. Makes me love you when more ๐
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Heeheehee, love me some tenth Doctor!!!
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Perhaps a daft question but do you not need the darts if you do the yoke and gathers?
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Yep, you don’t really need them if you have gathers!
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Thanks for your reply. Happy New Year from Liverpool UK. I have only just discovered your blog and you are now on my favourites bar!
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Thank you, Allison! Happy 2015! ๐
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Hi! I know you made this tutorial ages ago, but since the Sorbetto revamp I’ve been wanting to give it another try (my first attempt was…bad.) When you drafted the front piece, you said to fold out the dart so that you can trace the side seam. How do you fold the dart and keep the pattern flat? Or do you allow it to become 3D and just shimmy around to trace the side seam? Thanks very much!
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That’s it exactly – let it be 3D, and shimmy it around so you can trace it.
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Thank you so much! ๐
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Of course! Good luck!
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This is just what I needed. I saved some of my husbands button up shirts to make summer tops out of. I can use your yoke pattern and cut off the top of his shirts and just gather them up. Perfect Thank you.
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I’m so glad this is helpful!
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