Autumn/Winter Daydreaming: Coats, Coats, and More Coats!

Hi, dudes! Hope your weekends are all off to a great start! I’ve been in a bit of a sewing pickle lately… it seems too late in the season to keep sewing summer clothes, but it’s been so hot lately that it’s not much fun sewing cool weather clothes! I’ve made a couple of fall pieces that I haven’t worn or photographed, but I’m just not feeling too inspired to sew more at the moment. So, what have I been doing instead, you ask? Daydreaming about coats!

I put together a quick list of what I wanted to make this fall and winter, and it turns out that all I want to make is coats! Off the top of my head, I came up with a list of six (SIX!!!) coats/jackets that I want to sew (only four were for me, but still). Shocking! I’m making a jacket for my mom and one for my sister, using Pauline Alice’s Ninot jacket pattern, but I really need to narrow down options for myself. [ETA: There’s a discount code for Pauline’s shop good until Sun 9/7 PM- use “1YEAR” for 20% off!!] So I thought it would be fun to have an old-fashioned pattern geek-out focused on outerwear! It’s a long post, but if you make it to the end, there’s a fun surprise! (Note: all photos are property of their respective pattern companies, and are used with permission).

Pauline Alice Ninot Jacket

I already have the Gerard coat pattern by République du Chiffon. Dudes, I love this style. It’s really, really (probably intentionally) similar to an Isabel Marant coat that I love so much that it makes me feel kind of weird and sweaty. (Sidebar: if I were rich and frivolous, Isabel Marant would take ALL my money. Good thing I can sew!) I’m not 100% sold on the dropped-shoulder look on me, but I still want to try this pattern. (If you’re not sold on this pattern yet, check out this version on the Made by 6 blog! If I ever saw her in real life in that jacket I would grab it and run!) Bonus: this pattern is in English, so if you’ve been wanting to try RDC but don’t speak French, here’s your chance!

République du Chiffon Gérard

Next up, the Yona Wrap Coat by Named. Setting aside the irritating premise of a “Native American-inspired” collection (it’s not like there’s a giant group of “Native Americans” with one singular history and culture, people!), I’m drawn to this coat. It’s similar to the Gerard coat, but has one of my favorite details, a raglan sleeve, plus a fun cocoon-y shape. I also really like the fabric they used in the sample. Stripes FTW!

Named Yona Wrap Coat

Here’s another pattern I found that’s super cute- the Malu Coat, by Schnittchen. I’ve never used one of their patterns, but I really like this look. I rarely like/use hoods (I prefer a stand-up collar and a hat), but this one just looks so cozy and sweet.

Schnittchen Malu Coat

Here’s a fun one! It’s a new Burda plus size pattern, Paneled Wrap Cardigan 9/2014 (but let’s be honest, it’s totally a coat). Check out the line drawing- this design is chock-full of delicious seamlines! Wouldn’t this look amazing in a soft gray wool with tons and tons of topstitching?

Burda Paneled Wrap Cardigan (Plus Size) 9/2014 #137

Alright, I’ll reluctantly leave my favorite territory, Slouchy Coat Land, and venture into more classic territory. Here’s a timeless coat, V8884. I’ve been wanting to try my hand at sewing a trench coat for the longest time, but I have a RTW one from my pre-sewing days and can’t really justify owning two trench coats. Someday when mine dies I’ll sew one up… wouldn’t it be fun to have one in a crazy color?

Vogue V8884

OK, I didn’t just pick this next one because it’s animal print… but that didn’t hurt. This is Vogue V1365, a double-breasted wrap coat. There’s something so glamorous about a coat like this- I’d pair it with a floppy felt hat and oversized glasses and let everyone (OK, no one) think I’m an undercover starlet!

Vogue V1365

Speaking of classics, it doesn’t get more classic than Burda’s Barbour jacket for fellas! I’m not sure I’m up to the task of stitching up a coat for Man Friend, but I loooooooooooooove a man in a Barbour, so maybe I should just go for it! I’ll definitely do it if I come across some nice waxed cotton in my travels. Gorgeous!

Burda Men’s Barbour Jacket 10/2010 #137

OK, so this one is an imaginary pattern, but I’m crossing my fingers that Jen from Grainline releases a pattern for her delicious toggle coat! Does it make me a stalker to admit that I already have fabric set aside for one of these? Please don’t take out a restraining order on me, Jen! I just want my own Paddington Bear coat!!! [ETA: Pattern coming for this coat in the fall!!!!!]

Grainline Studio Northwoods Toggle Coat

Alright, that brings us to the end of this parade ‘o’ coats, so here’s your surprise! When I wrote to Silke of Schnittchen fame for permission to use her photos, she offered to give away THREE Malu coat patterns to Ginger Makes readers! How sweet is that! They’re not even PDFs- they’re paper patterns- and shipping is included! So, if you’d like to be entered to win, click here and give me your name and email! I’ll close the giveaway on Friday, September 12th at noon EST and choose three winners at random shortly thereafter. Good luck!

OK, it’s question time! Did you find any of these looks inspiring? What are your favorite coat patterns? Do you like sewing outerwear? Any tips or plans for sewing coats or jackets? What’s on your sewing table?

172 responses

  1. I never sewn outerwear, but my sister thinks it is all the same thing, so she offered my services to our mother and now I own a Burda little peplum jacket! People who don’t sew… Am I right?

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    • Why is it that when people have a sewing request, it’s always something complicated??? I haven’t made much outerwear, just an anorak, really, but it’s not hard so much as it is time-consuming. Especially if you select something with lots of details! Good luck with the peplum jacket!

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  2. Great selection of coats. That top jacket is so cute but the Malu is indeed so snuggly. Can’t wait to see what you choose first. Thanks for the giveaway opportunity. I usually hate the changeover from summer to winter but at least I’ll get some use out of the coat I made last year http://ooobop.com/?s=coat

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  3. Yes! I love these kind of posts-sewing daydreams! Tons of cute coats! I had never even heard of Schnittchen so that was also VERY exciting! I have to go lurk their website for an hour or so… My favorite coat pattern is the Sewaholic Minoru but I haven’t gotten the courage to sew it up yet. I’ve never tried sewing outerwear and I live in Seattle where rain is a factor so I’d want my coat to be very very good. I need to get brave and just do it! Right now I’m sewing up some jeans (or at least trying). So really, how scary can a coat be?

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  4. Making a coat for a man is actually easier than making a coat for yourself. Fitting someone else is way easier. Plus men dont have boobs. So you don’t have to fiddle with the fit between boobs and hips. Men occasionally have a beer belly, but from the pictures I’ve seen from your man friend, he aint got one. So, GO FOR IT! DEW EEET.

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  5. I’ve also been dreaming of coats constantly, and OMG I hadn’t seen Jen’s toggle coat before, but I must have it now! I so so hope she releases a pattern for it! I love toggle coats in general, but I’m also in love with how she made the hood a better size so it won’t get blown off your head in the Chicago wind. Having a hood that actually functioned in the wind would be amazing. I’ve been thinking of making a wool Deer and Doe Pavot, but there’s always room for a toggle wool coat and a dressier wool coat in my closet! I can’t wait to see what you end up sewing!

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  6. I have a few coat patterns that I’m hoping to try this winter but they’re packed away right now ( moving this weekend) so I couldn’t give you their deets right now. I’m super weird about coats and jackets- I buy like 6 each winter but end up hating all but maybe one for some reason or another. I hope to change that by sewing coats this winter ( cuz who wouldn’t rather spend money on fabric than coats- hehe).

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    • Good luck with your move! Hope it goes smoothly! I’m looking forward to sewing a coat simply because I know it will hold up better than my RTW coats. I had a peacoat, and still have a trench coat, and seams constantly ripped out, buttons fell off, belt loops fell off, the lining ripped right away, you name it! I bet you’ll be happier with a coat that you’ve planned out to the last detail!

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  7. I love the Gerard pattern! I made a version last winter and I intend to make one more this winter. I would also like to make the Yona Wrap Coat. Here in Greece is still too hot to even think about cool weather clothes, so I’m currently daydreaming and organising what I’d like to make in the coming months!

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    • Ooh, I just checked out your Gerard and it looks so cute! Love the grey!!! Did you fit in the medium size measurements, or did you size up? I can’t decide if I should go up a size or not…

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  8. I want a new coat this year and am just as stuck as to what to make! I love the more classic styles & adore flared skirts on coats. You’ve got some good ideas here, good luck in picking something! 🙂 Tips – good interfacing is key!

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  9. I love the Schnittchen coat, I’ve seen a couple if their patterns on Kollabora and have really liked them all. I’m not ready to admit it’s coat weather just yet and so I am going to start my cold weather sewing with Waffle Pattern’s Cookie Blouson. I love this pattern so much that I’ve almost be been waiting for autumn to start so I can make it!

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  10. This post makes me feel so much better about my coat dreaming obsession! I recently made up a Pinterest board of all the coats I want to make and couldn’t narrow it down so ended up just deciding that I would like one of each please, maybe in about 20 years I’ll be done!

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  11. I am also thinking about coats and even getting swatches which feels very organised!
    I have a heavy winter coat so I am looking for something more transitional – thinking of Burda 7041 which is quite retro!

    I saw the. Mali coat just the other day and it is fab- would love to win a copy!

    Louise

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  12. Love this post and love sewing coats! I also have plans for a Gerard – you’re right, the made by 6 one is phenomenal. There’s a great toggle coat pattern on burda website which I made several times (with adaptations) – despite the instructions it’s a winner every time. Something about the way the sleeves go in perfectly each time just makes me happy!

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  13. I can totally see you in that RDC coat – it has Ginger written all over it and sewn into every seam line. I’m piking out of the whole ‘coat’ issue and making a cape – they’re a hell of a lot easier to fit (especially when you’re trying to aim at a moving target!). Papercut’s cape is my winter insulation of choice… One day Lady Grey will be mine in a deep purple though!

    And the Barbour style coat isn’t that hard – just lots of added details like the pockets. You could make it no problems and it would look perfect on Man Friend. Plus deep pockets for pug treats – got to keep Miss P and Mr D on side in the winter!!

    On an aside, did you know that in most Barbour wax jackets there’s a large pocket on the inside – known as a poacher’s pocket but absolutely perfect for carrying young pups in…

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    • I looooooooooove that Papercut cape- it’s going to be fabulous on you! I think Amanda (Bimble & Pimble) made it and it looked amazing, if I’m remembering correctly!

      I didn’t know that about the inner pocket- puppy pocket!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

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  14. I made my first coat last year from a butterick pattern. It is bright red, with a huge collar in a wool/cashmere blend. I love it so much. I found the best method for inserting sleeves in Gertie’s book using a strip pf bias fabric, so that would be my tip. I found coat making so much easier than I thought, so am now a definite convert to sewing outerwear. Trench coats in bright colours are awesome. I may have three!

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    • Ooh, that sounds so snuggly and nice! I’ve seen that technique, but never tried it, but I think I will. I’m guessing that easing in coating with basting stitches is a real nightmare!

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  15. Perfect timing, I spent hours last night looking for a good coat pattern! The Ninot is really cute but I love me a good hood so the Malu is a strong contender. I’m in the sewing doldrums too at the moment, got a big list of autumn sewing projects but don’t want to let go of summer just yet!

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  16. I really want to make a coat this year as well. I have a thicker winter coat so I want something slightly lighter for before and after it gets realy cold! I think i like the retro Burda pattern 7041 with the stand up collar but can’t find any examples of it made up so may just have to take a chance on it! i have even been getting swatches – which is very organised for me!

    I love the RDC jacket but I feel like I wore one very similar in the 80s…!

    Louise

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  17. Great roundup! Coat planning is the only good thing about summer end. I’m definitely making at least one more… I like the Named one and the Malu (thank you for the giveaway, fingers crossed!) a lot.

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  18. I’ll pass on the giveaway because that style wouldn’t suit me at all. But good luck to everyone else! I actually am planning on making a coat this fall, and was planning to start cutting it out today! But I’m using a Vogue peacoat pattern that I’ve already used before. And I did already make a Sewaholic Robson trench this year, too. I guess I tend to like more classic styles when it comes to coats!

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  19. Ok, so knowing your style, I’d say that your number one favourite is the Northwoods Toggle Coat. No surprise you stashed some fabric for it already 🙂 But if you want to bring some extra glam into your current wardrobe and wear with your psychedelic Caftan dress, I’d say: Go for Vogue V1365! I think wrap coats are the best when it comes to practical vs. versatile. You can look as stylish or as boyish as you like.

    After last year’s success with the Andy coat from Named patterns, I decided to tackle two more coats from Style Arc. Too ambitious? Yes! If I made one, I’d be super proud.

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  20. I always love your posts! This one especially got me excited as I’m constantly on my own merry-go-round of sewing plans and what fun to be inundated with other plans too! I’ve had the Gerard pattern (and fabric for it) in my stash for some time, I really love that drop shoulder style. Must give it a whirl! I agree that Jen’s toggle coat is incred. Have you considered making something similar using the Colette Albion pattern? I’m making one myself right now, out of an olive coated cotton. It’ll be more of a spring/fall jacket I think. Also currently obsessed with everything dungarees! And culottes!

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    • What kind of fabric are you using for your Gerard coat? I can’t decide!!! I’ve seen the Albion pattern, but was put off by the thought of altering it to make it more suitable for a female. Was it a lot of work?

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      • Hmm yes I know what you mean about the Albion. I quite like the oversized look so for my version I’m just going to wear it man-sized, with slightly dropped shoulers. I have made a muslin and the sleeves are pretty huge, but I figure that means more room for layers. My Gerard fabric is a wool/cashmere blend in a beautiful rust colour, and I even have a matching silk twill lining. That sounds very impressive except that I haven’t even cut any of it out!

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  21. What a lovely parade of coats! My fav has to be the République du Chiffon Gérard coat, just lively. And yes, I hope Jen releases that toggle coat pattern, it is lovely.

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  22. haha you just wrote out alllll my winter coat plans!! i totally plan on making the RDC coat, though the similar Named pattern is also one i’m looking at. this whole weird weather thing is killing me! it was all chilly a week back and now it’s 90 with tropical humidity… so hard to figure out what to make! (you can skip me on the giveaway, it’s super generous of them though!)

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  23. I need that Grainline coat!! I have a duffle coat which I bought last winter but I would love to make my own! Realistically though, i know I am not going to have enough time for sewing outer wear at the moment so I will keep watching everyone else’s blogs with envy!

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    • It is a slow process, that’s for sure! When I made an anorak this winter, I couldn’t believe how long it took! There are just so many steps in outerwear! But the Grainline pattern is on the way so that’s good news!

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  24. I’ve been daydreaming about coats too! I’ve got some gorgeous wool set aside, so I’m just trying to make a decision about patterns. You may have convinced me to try the RDC coat. I almost went for the Named Yona coat but I couldnt see past the contrast collar. And I had no idea that their new collection was ‘Native American inspired’. Seems quite inconsiderate.

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    • I guess maybe it isn’t clear to non-Americans that the first inhabitants here were from many different tribes? I dunno… it still kind of rubs me the wrong way.

      I think I’m going to try the RDC coat, too. When you run a Google image search for it, it looks cute on everyone who’s made it, so that’s a good sign!

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  25. I made a coat for the husband last year using Colette’s Albion pattern which was a fun adventure. So this year, that means it’s my turn, right? I love the Malu and the Gerard! Can’t wait to see what you sew up!!

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  26. Wait, Named’s last collection was Native themed? How’d I miss that? Yikes. I”m getting so annoyed with all the “tribal” and “ethnic” and “Aztec” and “Navajo” fabrics that are popular right now… it’s so lazy. Call it geometric or do the research and give it a correct and specific “____-inspired” name!
    But coats – you are so ambitious! They are look great for you – get sewing!

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    • I really, really hate that! I hate the constant “tribal” in descriptions, and even Nina Garcia used “ethnic” and worse, “exotic” on PR the other night! I’ve even seen a couple of bloggers use “oriental”… um, NO. I have a half-finished blog post written about fashion and cultural insensitivity, but I’m a little scared to post it because I’m probably not the most articulate or informed person.

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      • So glad to come across these comments! I am new to the sewing-blog world and was confused to see that this terminology is so popular and so rarely challenged. I have a similar half-written post — and am hesitating to publish for similar reasons as you!

        It’s so disappointing that the Named brand is “Native American-inspired” — I’m sure there was no intent to offend, but their research could and should have delved so much further into the cultures, issues and debates surrounding the aesthetic that’s being borrowed here. There’s so much information available out there.

        Thank you for this post — so many good patterns and comments! (: That Malu looks like a lovely cozy dream to wear.

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          • It’s such a weird thing. I’ve been reticent to say something because sometimes these (in my opinion) insensitive terms are employed by non-Americans and I think sometimes they’re just not aware of the weird connotations these things can have over here. Not sure if that’s the case with Named, who are based in Finland. But fashion overall is pretty culturally insensitive (see: Zara recently releasing a children’s shirt that looked very much like the uniforms prisoners in concentration camps wore… yikes…), so I think it’s part of a more widespread problem.

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  27. Hahaha! I am SO glad I’m not the only person who’s coat daydreaming has been hanging on the hopes of a possible release of Grainline’s toggle coat! I haven’t stashed away fabric (yet) but I do think I’ve left a few creepy comments on her blog and instagram along the lines of “cooooaaaatttt… neeeeeeddddd coooaatt…” I hope Jen will forgive us for our coat stalking!

    I love your roundup of selections here! I have a soft spot for a good unstructured coat as well, and out of this group the Gerard and the Malu are my favorites. I love a good hood, so I’m definitely keeping my fingers crossed for that Malu!!

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  28. Just have to say that Paddington bear is my favorite… Realistically, I don’t really need a coat. I live in a climate where I throw on my fleece or a light jacket and I’m ok. But it would be fun to sew some outerwear. I like that Malu coat pattern, too. Never heard of that pattern company.

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  29. The “”Native American inspired” thing rubs me the wrong way too – and then I have to be irked that I find the coat by Named so attractive! All these styles are lovely, but probably not for me – I need some cinching around the waist. Don’t sign me up for the giveaway – I’m just having fun admiring the look on others. And Jen’s duffle coat is amazing!

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  30. coats are totally on my brain too! i just don’t know which one to make. but i love that malu coat. i ordered some wool swatches from mood the other day and i can’t wait!

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  31. Coats are so satisfying to sew, because you can wear them all the time! I like all the ones on your list! I have a couple planned for fall…a jean jacket, and then I am thinking about an oversized Archer in cotton twill, as a lightweight jacket. For winter I am totally counting on Jen’s toggle coat pattern- I want to make both the long and short version! And I really should make a raincoat, I live in Portland and don’t have a raincoat or umbrella, ha. Can’t wait to see which one(s) you make!

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    • You don’t have a raincoat?!?!?! What?!?! Do you run every time you see a cloud?!?!

      Love the idea of an Archer as a jacket!!! That sounds amazing! I’m off to go dig up photos of your Gerard… it was so fabulous!

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      • Haha, no I just get wet! It doesn’t usually rain hard here, but still- I should have a raincoat. I thought about it last winter but got stuck thinking about how to waterproof the seams…

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  32. I don’t think i am ready to sew coats yet. But next year in the fall, i am determined to be ready for the challenge. I myself tend to obsess over the Marfy coats. And in fact have at least three picked out already. (“next year, Erin! You aren’t ready yet!” “But i wants them NOW!” “NEXT YEAR! And look! Something pretty and shiny!”)

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  33. I have never sewn a coat! I live in Arizona so it’s hard to justify sewing anything more than a sweater. Plus I have 2 nice wool coats (because I’m insane and also travel) and a lime green pea coat that’s pretty sweet. But I would still love to try one!! I love the Malu coat. And the trench coat! I don’t have a trench coat sooo maybe I could justify that? 😀

    I don’t think I’ve ever commented before, but I love your blog and am making an effort to stop being such a lurker. Thanks for the sweet giveaway!

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  34. Dude…I’m working on it!!! Hopefully by the end of October (fingers crossed or beg of Nov)…maybe that’s too late for a coat but I do wear it all winter long and winter lasted till May here last year! So many good coats…I also love the Isabel Marant coat you reference, I made an oversized blazer style coat that is my favie fav based on an $800 Rachel Comey coat I obviously couldn’t afford. Coats coats coats, they are SO FUN!!

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    • Yay!!! That’s awesome news!!! I WISH that November was too late for a winter coat… but I’m sure I’ll have months and months to wear it, yuck! Coats are just so fun to sew- you can’t have too many, can you?

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  35. Ooh, coats! I definitely want to make my first winter coat this year, but I want something fitted around the waist, and I can’t seem to find any patterns like that. I have my fingers crossed one of the indies will release a princess-seamed coat, but I may have to branch out a bit and try a new silhouette for my first one.

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      • I have the Pavot and I’m actually planning to make a fall version next week, so I’ll find out soon enough! It doesn’t have two piece sleeves, though, and from what I understand that is important for coats, but I really don’t know anything about sewing winter coats!

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  36. Oooh, a francophile selection! The ninot jacket is on my wish list, it seems like a good opportunity to learn bound buttonholes and pockets… If the sloppy shoulders of Gérard disturb you, I have seen some tutoriels online to reduce them a little… But république du chiffon patterns are very popular in France, and I can definitely see you in Gérard! Plenty of French girls love Isabel Marant’s droopy designs, and by American standards I’d say we’re rather petite.

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    • Yes, it’s a pretty international selection this time- Ninot in Eng/Fr/Spa, Gerard in Fr/Eng, Malu in Ger/Eng, Yona in Fin/Eng… lots of options! I love love love the RDC designs- I’m really looking forward to her A/W collection!

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  37. What a great list! I already own the ninot pattern (both versions: one for me and one for my daughter!) but I don’t have the skills yet… Maybe next year. I have the same problem with the shoulders of RDC’s patterns (I made a Michelle and I’m not so sure I will wear it a lot because of this). I looove the Schnittchen pattern! (thank you so much for the little game! What a nice idea!).
    Oh, and YES!!! Make Jen release the pattern of her wonderfull duffelcoat (that the name of those coats in french!).
    I’ve been following your blog with a lot of joy! Thank you for it, you’re nice and fun and the things you sew are really nice! Merci beaucoup!

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  38. This is a very well-timed post for me, thank you! I’ve been looking at coat patterns this week, and the Malu is just what I’ve been looking for – I’ll definitely be treating myself to the pattern if I’m not lucky enough to win one of the ones in the giveaway!

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  39. Today I hope to finish up a final summer dress because yesterday I got some coat lining in the mail. My plan is to make the Katherine Tilton Butterick 5960 coat with some silver floral double-knit fabric that I have. It will be my first time making a coat (fingers crossed). I actually love that Malu pattern; I’m a sucker for anything with a hood. Thank you for the giveaway and good luck on all your coat-making plans!

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  40. Wow love that Malu coat!!! Love hoods!!!
    I’m planning a KwikSew 3764 biker jacket for my Sister as a Christmas pressie, and maybe another one for myself in Harris tweed. I was thinking of Vogue 8933 as well (maybe!). Quite fancy a trench coat too. So many decisions to make!!

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    • Ooh, that’s a cute pattern! You’re such a good sister! I have to confess that I bought a biker jacket when I found one I loved on sale this summer… the thought of sewing all those zippers scared me! Good luck!

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  41. I’ve never sewn a coat before, but I do have some fabric set aside for one. I’m just too scared to try it. I love that Pauline Alice jacket, and the Malu one looks awesome too. But now that I see that Grainline coat – I am dying for a toggle jacket. I really, really hope she releases that as a pattern too. I also just drooled over Sewn By Elizabeth’s new swing coat. Decisions…decisions. Can’t wait to see yours!

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  42. I like your coat choices. In fact I like them so much I made my own list which looks almost(make that exactly) like yours. Do you think if we cyber harass Grainline Jen she would make us a pattern for that coat? Just a thought. Thank-you for the giveaway. That is my second favorite coat,with the favorite being the Grainline coat.

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  43. Love your round up! I’m particularly drawn to the slouchy coats and the toggle coat. I, however, will buy my coats. I got halfway through the Minoru when I realized that I detest sewing outerwear! Seriously, I would rather quilt. That’s saying something for me.

    (Oh and I’ll pass on the giveaway — I love the style of that coat but I would never make it!)

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    • I can understand that… outerwear is really time-consuming! For some reason I love making blazers and coats, but I feel that way about pants. I’m just not even slightly interested in making trousers! Too tedious!

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