Guys. I made jeans.
This is a big deal.
Here’s the thing. I wear jeans every day. Like, every single day. I’m wearing them now. I wore them yesterday. Honestly, I have no idea when I last wore something else outside the house! But I have to admit that I’ve never, ever, EVER wanted to sew a pair! They’re right up there with bras for me- I know some of you sew these successfully and beautifully, but I just don’t have the precision, patience, or fitting skills to do it myself. Then, way back in May, Man Friend and I visited Montreal for his birthday and snuck in a wee brunch with Heather Lou (sidenote: if you want to see an example of saintlike patience, it’s Man Friend calmly and pleasantly eating while Heather and I talked and talked and TALKED about sewing on HIS birthday weekend). This is what went down:
Heather: “Did I tell you I’m naming my next pattern after you?”
Me: [super touched by this gesture]
Heather: “It’s a skinny jean”
Me: [@#$%]
Confession: I had zero confidence in this project the entire way through. Jeans just seem so… impossible! Annoying! Un-fun to sew! I didn’t think I could get them to fit correctly or to be tough enough for everyday wear. I thought they would break my sewing machine. I figured there was about a 97% chance that I’d quit midway through in a puddle of tears and snot… not a pretty thought! Spoiler alert: sewing jeans is totally doable!
Without further ado, meet my Ginger jeans! These look pretty gosh darn good for a first pair of jeans, yeah?
Let’s talk construction! I made view A, with the lower waist and stovepipe legs, which closely mimics the style of my favorite Levi’s. Everything I needed to know was covered in the pattern instructions. I’ve never made pants before, and I’ve only sewn a front fly once (in my Moss mini), so this was all pretty new to me. But I just took it one step at a time and everything went together smoothly. There were one or two things that were confusing to me, but Heather addressed all of these concerns in the final pattern instructions.
I’m sure you’ve heard this before, but it was WAY easier to sew these with two sewing machines. I think this is the first project I’ve done with contrast topstitching since getting my Juki, and it was a breeze to stitch the seams on my Janome, serge them, and then topstitch with the Juki. I’ve done contrasting topstitching before, but I had to keep switching thread spools and bobbins and it was annoying. If you only have one machine, this is the perfect excuse to set up a sewing date with a friend and pool resources! Or just carefully consider your construction order so you don’t have to swap thread as much. 🙂 Speaking of topstitching, I bought a 1/8″ compensating foot for my Juki which made it a BREEZE (and it was only $6… the benefit of your machine taking industrial feet!). Previously, my attempts at even topstitching have been… sad. So if you have an edgestitch/topstitching/compensating foot, this is a great time to use it! Or take a good look at the feet you do have and see if there’s one that can help you get straighter lines than your regular presser foot (I’ve heard that blind hem feet can be good for lining up with your seam/edge). It’s worth it to practice before diving in, especially if you’re using thread in a contrasting color.
My machines didn’t break, and actually both performed like champs! I used denim needles on both of them, and they happily sewed through everything. The only problem I had was attempting to do bar tacks- I could have easily gone through the layers with my Juki, but it doesn’t do a zigzag. When I tried it on my Janome, with topstitching thread in the bobbin, my machine was like, “You’re hilarious. I’m not doing that.” [ETA: I did my topstitching with regular thread in the bobbin… I just thought I needed topstitching thread in the bobbin to do bar tacks). I can’t adjust the presser foot pressure, which might have solved that problem. I settled for backstitching a few times on my Juki. Fine by me! Otherwise everything was easy- I didn’t even have trouble making a nice buttonhole with my basic Janome! Yay!
Next up, materials. I used denim from Mood that I bought a couple of years ago. I’m not certain what the stretch percentage is in the fabric, but I compared it to a pair of Levi’s that has 2% Lycra and it felt similar to me, so it’s in the right ballpark. I used regular navy thread for the seams and a spool of Mettler topstitching thread. It was my first time using that heavier thread, and it looks really cool! I’m glad that I tried it! I had jeans buttons and rivets in my stash from Taylor Tailor (I used them for my Moss mini and my Romy anorak). I felt pretty bad pounding on the rivets (using a hammer and the back of my cast iron skillet)… my poor neighbors were probably wondering what on earth that sound was! Unfortunately, I didn’t get the jeans button on securely enough, so it popped off right as I was heading out to take blog photos. I decided to scrap the photo op and just take the jeans to Star Snaps so they could set the button, something Puu recommended to me (she told me it’s Kenneth King’s favorite spot for snaps/rivets/etc!). It cost me all of 45 seconds and $2 and I had a snug, secure button! I used scraps of cotton shirting for the pocket bags… actually, every single thing I used for these jeans I already had! Stash-bustin’ win!!!
OK, let’s talk fit! This is the thing I was most scared about. I’ve seen many sewists discuss pants fitting, and they bandy about all kinds of terrifying terms (ex: “crotch whiskers”. I WANT NO PART OF THIS.) So I dove in with more than a little trepidation. My waist and hip measurements match the size 4 measurements, so I was able to cut a straight size. When I basted everything together, I noticed that I was getting some gaping in the back (a frequent issue for me… I used to have to take my RTW jeans to the tailor’s to have them taken in back there, ugh). So I pinned out a dart in the back yoke and altered the pattern piece by slashing and overlapping 1/4″ to remove the excess I took out in the dart. Then I took out a 1/4″ tuck in the same spot on the waistband, twice (once for each side since you cut two back yokes and only one waistband). If anyone needs a visual for this, let me know and I’d be happy to show you what I did. I could probably have taken out a smidge more, but I didn’t want to risk things getting too tight after a big bowl of spaghetti! After altering the pattern, I just recut the yoke and waistband pieces and my muslin became a wearable pair of jeans! OK, full disclosure: I had to cut the waistband THREE times… once for the original muslin, once after changing the fit, and one more time after I accidentally sewed the pieces together upside-down, completely ignoring the instructions and notches WHOOOOOPS).
Oh, you know, just relaxin’ with my hands on my head awkwardly so you guys can see the top of my waistband…
On my next pair, I plan to use flat-felled seams for a cleaner finish. Since this was a muslin, I basted the seams to check the fit, then just serged the seams and topstitched them down. I may give myself a little more room just through the knee so the fit is just like my favorite pair of RTWs. And, here’s where I could use some advice- there’s something a little strange happening at the front crotch (I don’t think they’re crotch whiskers… at least, I really hope not) but I don’t know what’s causing it. Too much length? Any thoughts? Also, I didn’t realize until I was nearly done with my jeans that the topstitching thread was getting all gross and birds-nest-y on the underside when my machine needed to go over something thick like a belt loop. This problem was easily solved by folding up a piece of denim and placing it behind the belt loop so the presser foot wouldn’t have to go over it at an angle. I’ll be sure to use this every time on the next pair! You can also buy a “humpjumper” (STOP SNICKERING) just for this purpose for a couple of bucks, so that’s an option if you want something more professional. 🙂
If you can’t tell by now, I’m a jeans sewing convert! I’m so, so impressed by this pattern, and I’m really glad I had the opportunity to sew these up! I really appreciate the way that Heather has taken garments that are scary (swimsuit, jeans) and made them approachable and even fun to sew. Thanks, Heather, for the fun pattern, and for letting me be your muse! So if you’re thinking about sewing a pair of jeans, but you feel skeptical or nervous, I really recommend you give the Ginger jeans a try! I was so pleasantly surprised by how easy this process was, so much so that I’ve already planning a second pair [whispers] in a novelty denim! You can buy the pattern here, if you’re interested!
Guys. What do you think? Do these look like real jeans? Would you sew your own jeans? Have you already? If so, how did it go? What’s the scariest thing you can imagine sewing?
Now, Heather, PLEASE don’t release a bra pattern because I really, really, REALLY don’t want to sew one! 😉
they really look fabulous, ginger!
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Ahhh, thanks, Mokosha!
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These look fantastic! I am curious what machines you have… Any details? I’m in the market for a new one and want to make sure I get one that can see denim (eventually). Again, great job in the jeans. I’ll send you a page from my super old fitting book about correcting the crotch fit!
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These look fantastic! I’m wondering what kind of machines you have.. Any details? I’m in the market for a new one and want to make sure it sews through denim (eventually). I’ll send you some info from my super old fit book regarding your crotch fitting issues!
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Yay! These totally look like “real” jeans!
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Thanks, Clio! I’m pretty shocked!
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Holy moly –> 212 comments already! I was going to look through to see if people already gave you the advice on fitting that you requested, but I only have five seconds of free time before baby girl wakes up from her nap. So, maybe someone’s already said this, but… In his Jean-ius class, Kenneth King recommended taking out a quarter inch right at the peak of the front crotch curve when it felt like there was too much fabric going on there. Blend up to the fly and down to the side seam. Though it seems like a small change, it was enough to help me fit my jeans back in the day. Maybe doing the same will help you? Congrats on having a pattern named after you, by the way!!!!
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Ahhh, so you remove it at the sharp end of the curve? I’ll have to dig up the video because it sounds like what I need to do!
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I have the exact same issue. Your picture of the front could be mine! If you run across a visual of this, would love a link if you have the time and inclination of course.. Will try to read thru the comments more.
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These are perfection!! Brilliant job – I am seriously tempted by this pattern and suspect I will be buying it in the near future. It’s just hard to think about jeans when it is a million degrees out!!
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Ahhh, but now you’re in the best time of all- sundress season! 😉
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I love a good pair of jeans though. Now to source some denim, that could be the tricky part here. Hmm..perhaps another trip to the US?? 😉
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Come on over! 😉
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Unbelievable… your first pair of pants, ever? Tres impressed! Pretty excited to get stuck into this pattern myself!
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I bet you’ll love sewing it! It’s pretty satisfying to work through a challenge like jeans!
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Jeans!!! That look like – JEANS!! I feel like that’s a mega sewing accomplishment. And wow, what amazing fit, especially for the first round. 🙂
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Thanks, Donna! It felt like an impossible challenge, but it really wasn’t that bad! It’s amazing how nervous you can get about things that really aren’t that difficult. 🙂
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Ginger, You should be extremely PROUD of yourself! You conquered the jean. They look fabulous. So now you can craft you very own jeans without fail. Congratulations. It’s always a pleasure.
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Thank you, Cennetta! You’re a master at fitting trousers! Hopefully I’ll get to your level one day!
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Your jeans look fantastic! Thanks for such a thorough review. I’m joining the sewalong next week. Eeeek! I’m definitely terrified! Is your Juki industrial? I might need to order that 1/8″ compensating foot. I was going to sew them on my industrial and topstitch on my vintage Singer. Maybe I’ll switch that. Love your Pugs! I have 3 rescued Bostons and a rescued Rottie who thinks he’s a Boston.
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Yep, well, it’s a semi-industrial that uses regular industrial feet. It really makes topstitching easy! Awww man, Bostons are so cute, but I’ve always had a huge soft spot for Rotties. My pugs are both adopted too! Glad to meet another dog lover!
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Thanks! I’m gonna get that foot. Yeah, Rotties are such sweet souls. Yay for adopting!
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Yeah!! Go Sonja! These are some seriously professional looking jeans and they fit you great. I downloaded the pattern straight away as they are exactly the style of jean that I like, it’s like Heather Lou got inside my brain and figured out what it would take to get me sewing jeans! Really excited to get started if it means I can have jeans like yours!
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Thanks, girl! I know what you mean- there just hasn’t been a single other pattern that’s anywhere close enough to the style of jeans that I like to wear to make me want to bother with sewing them up. These will look so cute on you!
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They look AWESOME. I’m with you on jeans and bras. I really have no desire to sew either. But sewing my own jeans would solve a lot of the issue I have with rtw…..
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OK, then you should totally sew a pair of jeans! But let’s avoid bras like the plague. 🙂
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Super impressed, Sonja. Jeans scare the living daylights out of me. Pants do to! And I’m still coming to terms with pants, let along jeans… They look pretty great for a first timer!
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Wait. You made the world’s most amazing wedding dress, but jeans scare you??? I don’t believe you! 😀
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These are AMAZING!!!!!!
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Thanks, Nat!!! 🙂
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WHAAAAT! These are GREAT! So perfect that a jeans pattern is named after you – the ultimate casual chic chick 😀 Jeans are definitely on my “no-sew” list, but only because I already found the perfect RTW pair for my pear shape 😉
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@thequirkypeach, where have you found the elusive RTW jeans for a pear shape? I’ve been looking for 30 years and have yet to find a pair I don’t have to alter!
Sonja, I love, love, love your jeans! You look amazing, and so do your jeans. 🙂
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Abby, you might try the Levi’s Curve ID jeans… they make different lines for different proportions. I’ve had good luck with them!
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They’re fab! Well done! I can’t believe I never thought of using both of my sewing machines for making the Sewaholic Robson Trench coat! Must have wasted hours switching between 2 colours of normal thread and topstitching thread too!!!
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Oh man, how tedious! But it’s such a gorgeous coat!
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These look super awesome! I need to take pics of mine. I also was TERRIFIED to sew jeans—I’ve only sewn shorts before, and haven’t sewn a fly zip since highschool (and can’t remember doing it at all) so I was really amazed mine turned out SO well. Though I totally macgyvered some fitting into it that I don’t think I could replicate… anyway, jeans sewing for the win!
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Oh man, I can’t wait to see yours!!!
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I love you a million. I need to make myself jeans. I have the fabric (not the hardware, though) and a pattern; I just needed the proof that it is possible. Yours turned out awesome! I have no excuse now.
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Thanks, girl! You can do it! You really can!
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You are so inspirational ! I bought a jeans pattern a couple of years ago, and have never got it out of the envelope. They look incredible – well done!
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Thanks, lady. Jeans are really intimidating, but they’re not too bad when you break them up into little steps. You can do it!
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Ginger, this looks great. You look so good in these and the topstitching looks amazing.
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Your jeans look fantastic! Would love to see a tutorial on how you did the back yoke adjustment. I will need to do this. As I mentioned before above, I have the same front crotch issue.
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I ended up not posting one because Heather covered it in her fitting post under “Gaping at Waist”: http://closetcasefiles.com/ginger-sewalong-pt-5-fitting/
The one thing she doesn’t spell out here is that you need to remove whatever you take out of the yoke from the waistband, too.
My suspicion is that the front crotch needs to be shortened a little bit, but I haven’t tried another mockup yet so I’m not 100% certain!
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OMG you are definitively breaking the internet with awesomeness
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They are amazing Ginger !!!
I can’t wait to assembly mine to test the fit, and like you, I’m terrified about the fitting adjustments….
I was at size 6 for the hips and 8 for the waist, but since I cut the low waist version, I cut everything in size 6 (actually I had no idea to make this modification :s)
Your compensating foot seems to be a wonderful tool to do the topstitching 😉
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Thank you, Sandra! I hope yours turn out great!!!
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Love your jeans they look fantastic. If you try pinning a wedge dart from center front graduating to nothing at the side seam this should help the fit. This reduces the crotch length but doesn’t affect the side seam. Good luck.
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I am way late here, but your jeans turned out amazing! The fit, the stitching, all around really nice! Glad the rivets worked for you.
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Reading your review not only convinced me to buy the pattern, I also finally bought a Juki TL2010Q – so THANKS for that, Sonja!
My machine comes with a 1/4″ compensating foot. Did you use that foot PLUS the 1/8″ compensating foot? I couldn’t find the 1/8″ online (no dealer near me), but maybe I should wait for the machine to actually get here before I stress about new feet.
I love your jeans and hope you are enjoying wearing them.
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Oh wow, you will love the machine! I used both feet, but the 1/4″ totally works. I will try to find a link for the 1/8″ foot…
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Oh, please don’t worry about the link. You’ve done enough damage , thank you! LOL. I found one on the Juki website and when the machine gets here I will investigate what kind of generic feet to buy. Thanks for giving us a garment-sewing review! I will try to tape the pattern with a better attitude, knowing my machine is on its way.
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