Hi, guys! I hope you’re all well. Before we start talking sewing, I just want to take a moment to say that if you’re reading from Baltimore or Nepal, you’re in my thoughts and prayers. The firsthand updates from my sister in Baltimore and a childhood friend in Nepal have been so heartbreaking. Praying for healing, restoration, and safety for everyone!
OK, let’s talk about the Morris blazer. I’ve been anxiously awaiting the release of this pattern for ages! In fact, I’ve had a piece of ikat linen stashed away for it for something like two years! So I was surprised to find out that it was designed for stretch wovens or stable knits… pleasantly surprised! I had a RTW double-breasted blazer in French terry that I wore until it was dead, and never found a replacement. I frequently wear my woven blazers, but it’s nice to have something even easier to wear for situations where you’ll be running around or taking your jacket on and off.
So, for April’s Mood Sewing Network project*, I ran to Mood with 15 minutes to spare before my evening class (NOT RECOMMENDED!) and raced straight up to the neoprene section. I’d planned to look for a fun print, but this color jumped out at me and I had to have it! As I had the fabric cut, another shopper spotted it and hovered, waiting to grab the bolt as soon as I was done with it. The color is that good!
Now, neoprene is one of those fabric fads that seem to pop up from time to time. All of a sudden it’s everywhere! I’ve been curious about it for a while, but I’ve mostly seen it used for bodycon dresses or pencil skirts and that’s just not my cup of tea (this particular fabric was labeled as Alexander Wang, and I’m pretty sure it’s what he used for this dress). But I thought it would be a fun experiment to try a nontraditional fabric for a blazer and thought it might work for the Morris since it’s such a streamlined design.
Before I sew with a new fabric type, I like to stitch samples to make sure I’m making good decisions before I start in on my garment. I had best results using my walking foot, a 75/11 ballpoint needle, and a regular straight stitch. Since the fabric is pretty thick, I had to lengthen my stitches a bit to get them to a normal size. I found that the fabric layers slipped a bit as I sewed, so I had to sew slowly and use lots of pins. I tested out binding the seams, but in the end decided to reduce bulk by just leaving them unfinished. As you can see, the lapels have tons of body in a fabric like this, which I like, but if I changed my mind, I could tack them down to the jacket front with a couple of teeny stitches.
I interfaced the facing pieces with Pro-Tricot Deluxe Fusible from Fashion Sewing Supply (don’t worry- I fused a sample piece first to make sure nothing would melt!). But pressing is pointless on neoprene, so I topstitched the seam allowances down. I actually love how this looks- it gives the jacket a sporty feel. And when I needed to turn under the seam allowances of the facings, I machine stitched on the fold line so the perforations would help me make a crisp fold. The only place I ran into trouble was at the sleeve head. There’s no way to topstitch that seam, so I opted to catch stitch the seam allowances down. You can see slight indentations from the stitches on the right side, like a blind hem, but that looks much better than a mushy seam! Speaking of the sleeves, I got to do my favorite sleeve trick, which is hemming them before I set them in. It’s so much easier to navigate those little sleeve openings when you’re not wrestling the entire jacket out of the way!
Let’s talk about the pattern. It goes together quickly, which was so fun and satisfying compared to the sloooooooow tailoring projects that have been taking up most of my sewing time lately. It’s unlined and there aren’t any pockets,which was great for a keeping the bulk down. I did notice that the facing isn’t smooth where it meets the front hemline, like Lizzy mentioned. This goes away when the collar is flipped up, so I think the lapel rolling over in heavy, slick fabric makes the front sag a bit. I will probably go back and catch stitch the facings in place (or maybe even topstitch them!). Easy fix!
Otherwise everything went together smoothly and I didn’t have any issues. I made a 4, my usual Grainline size. I could stand to do a small narrow shoulder adjustment (I usually should, but I’m lazy and often just skip it), but otherwise everything fits well. The stretch of the neoprene is really pretty awesome- I had so much fun stretching my arms out to see how unrestricted my movement was in a stretchy blazer! I could totally throw a haymaker in this thing without popping a seam! Good to know that my outfit won’t get messed up if I get caught up in a street fight on my way to an important meeting!
I was so pumped up after making this that I immediately cut out another! Anybody recognize this fabric? It’s leftover from my Lola dress two years ago! I’d hoped to turn it into a knit Victoria blazer, but was never confident about choosing a lining or dealing with the lapels in a knit. But the fabric was perfect for another Morris! Stash-busting win!
Now I’ve got a pile of fabric stacked up on my cutting table, just crying out to be blazers! I may be making nothing but Morrises for the next little while!!!
How about you guys? Tempted to try this pattern? What kind of fabric would you use? And have you tried using neoprene? Any fabric fads you’re excited to try? Any you’re avoiding like the plague? Do tell!!!
*Once a month I receive a fabric allowance from Mood to make something fun! I blog it first on the MSN blog, then over here. If I use stash materials or things purchased from another source, I’ll let you know in my post. 🙂
Fabulous new blazers, these look so great on you. I need this pattern now.
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This pattern has your name written all over it! I can totally see you rocking it!!!
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Wow, scuba party all the way! Love the blue one (not a print kind of a girl myself). I want to make this so badly now!! P.S Well jel that you live so close to Mood!! I will be getting my Brit passport soon (ish) and a trip to NY is first on the list of travel to go to Mood :).
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It’s a blessing and a curse- I may as well just have my employer send my paycheck directly to Mood every week! 😀 Hope you do come to NY!!!! 😀
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Fun! Love both of these. I really need a solid navy or black, but I’m also dying for a bright floral printed blazer! And a striped one, and a polka dotted one, and a color-blocked one…
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Heeheehee! It’s pretty easy to imagine wearing all of those!!!
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These blazers look great!!! I haven’t picked up the pattern quite yet (it’ll be on the netz waiting for me :D), but I really want to make one (or 2 or 3) this summer!!! I loooove the color of your scuba – I’ve been wanting cobalt things for forever! And I think you may have sparked my imagination with your talk of French terry blazers…
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Totally recommended! The French terry blazer was secret pajamas but totally looked sharp!
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I don’t think anyone would ever be able to imagine you in a street fight, let alone want to get into one with you! LOL – that face, seriously, you’re too cute ^__^ Love the colour of the blue; it’s gorgeous, and I like this style and cut on you; a stretchy semi-casual blazer is a really great idea! 🙂
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Hahahaha! I can’t really imagine getting in a fight… unless maybe someone attacked the pugs! 😀
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well now, THAT I can see! 😀 I’d be the same way 🙂
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Huh, and here I was thinking she meant a haymaker like this http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Conditioner_%28farming%29 and wondered why you were talking about fighting, until I looked it up. I had no idea until now that it was a kind of punch!
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i love this. it is sneaking its sneaky way up my sewing queue past some very grumpy things that have been waiting ages,. but i have a perfect purple ponte!
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This is a sneaky little pattern! I immediately dropped all other plans and skipped this right to the top… naughty!
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In love with the animal print!! I really like this pattern but I’m trying to refrain and sew with what I already got. Easier said than done, huh?!
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Animal print is just the best!!! 😀
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And oh man, I’m always swearing up and down that I won’t buy any more patterns or fabric… lies, all lies!
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So cute! I love your fabric choices!! I’m probably going to make a few, myself. I’ve got some awesome black French terry that I’m thinking of using for my first one. Plain, but practical! I’ll wear it with everything.
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That sounds like the perfect blazer! Comfortable and chic!!!
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Very cute. I love cobalt blue
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Thanks lady! I don’t think I’ve ever had anything this color before, but I’m loving it!
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Ah, the blue is so pretty! I like how sharp these look, but I can’t do extra layers–people like me are probably the reason that other people have to wear cardigans to work. I rock sleeveless in the dead of winter. 😉
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Heeheeheee, so it’s your fault! 🙂 I’m one of those people that are cold except for July and August… probably shouldn’t have left southern California!!! ;D
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Looks fab – I prefer the stash busting version! I’ve spent the last couple of days drooling over everyones Morris’s and HAD to buy the pattern. I have some cream double knit in my stash which I’m going to use for my first one! Might need jazzing up a bit if it looks a bit boring!
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Oooh, no, cream sounds LOVELY! It won’t be boring at all! Now I’m wishing I had something that color in my stash! 🙂
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I love the blue–so gorgeous. And then I scrolled down and saw the leopard print! Wow! Those are both great.
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Thanks Qui! I know I’ll wear them all the time!
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Nice one! That royal blue is just so great – love that colour!! I really fancy trying my hand at neoprene, but I haven’t really seen it in any of the fabric shops I frequent, so I might just take the jump and order a new to me fabric online. But I heard it’s quite sweaty – would you agree? Because if that is right then it’s definitely not for me…
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This neoprene is very thick and would definitely not be good for warm weather. It’s not breathable at all! I’ll be saving it for cool weather. 🙂
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Oh I love that leopard print! I’m not a jacket/blazer wearer so definitely not a pattern for me, but I love seeing everyone else’s. Winnie from Scruffy badger made a jersey Victoria blazer some time ago that you should look at and that I’m tempted by. Really heartbreaking what’s going on in the world and I asked myself this morning whether I would rather buy some more craft stuff or donate to help send aid to people that need it. Needless to say nepal got my money! Well done got highlighting it! Xxxx
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Our needs and wants seem awfully trivial in the face of such devastation. Hopefully the relief efforts will go smoothly and if more of us send along our crafting dollars we can make a difference! Thanks for giving and leading by example! 🙂
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Love! They are perfect on you. I’m so tempted by this pattern but worry that it’s a bit too boxy for me. Maybe I should just bite the bullet and add some shape myself… I have the perfect stretch cotton in stash!
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There isn’t much waist shaping at all as drafted, but you could totally add some! I’d love to see your take on this pattern!
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You’ve got a cute jacket there. I love the blue! I am seeing it everywhere… I’m going to have to get myself some. Hmm I haven’t tried neoprene yet, going to have to see if I can find some of that too!
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It really is a pretty blue, and seems to look nice with every hair and skin color! What a happy color! 🙂
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That is my favorite blue!
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I remember the great dress you made in this color! One of your yokes + gathers projects, I think, with embroidery? Gonna go find it right now!
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Ahhh, so many great Morrises popping up in the last few days! Love this pattern and your two fun versions! You have a great pair here – a statement pop of color in the blue, and a fun neutral with the animal print. I’ll be watching to see what your next one is made of… 🙂
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I’ll give you a hint… it’s sparkly! 😀
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Man, you and your street fights. 😉
I really love the color of your blue jacket. SO PRETTY!!
I have some neoprene that I want to turn into a circle skirt. Nice and bouncy.
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You’ll never tame me, Trice! And WHOA. Neoprene circle skirt!!!!! PERFECTION.
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Wow, very chic and sporty and I just love that blue neoprene! You’re a brave soul entering into Mood 15 minutes before class! Eeek! I’d have missed class that day!
http://www.StyleSewMe.com
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I don’t know what I was thinking! I had to really book it to make it to class on time… and it’s ten blocks, ha!
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Great job on running to Mood 15 minutes before you had to go somewhere! I’d have just been tardy for the party! I love the blue neoprene!
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Ooooh, I lurve them! They both look perfectly your style – and they are going to be so nice to throw on over tee shirts as the weather warms up! Are you going to make one out of your ikat anyway?
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No, I think it’s going to become a dress! It’s kind of a strange color, a rusty orange or pumpkin color, so it probably would have been hard to pair with other stuff in my closet!
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Both jackets are awesome. My favourite is the animal print. Like your matching sneakers.
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Thanks, lady! Can you tell what my favorite print is? 😀 The shoes are by Superga… they have super fun sneakers!!!
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Both of these look awesome!! I love your little sleeve hemming trick too! I really want to make this pattern soon, I bought it right away but I want to finish a couple more projects before I get to it. Looks like a great staple!
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I can definitely see you in this! Looking forward to your version! What’s next on your to-make list?
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I’m going to make my Mom a hawaiian themed shirt for her first Ukulele club performance, and then I’m not sure. I’m kind of obsessed with getting perfect fitting jeans, but I also think I need a break from them, so I’m not entirely sure.
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When I first saw this pattern I wasn’t rushing out to make it. Now that I’ve seen a few different versions I’m thinking I need one in my wardrobe. I love your leopard print version! I’m a sucker for an animal print so it’s no surprise.
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Every girl needs an animal print blazer! Especially you!
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I love a jersey blazer and need to find time to make this! although honestly its probably not going to happen until fall. but, being true to myself, it will probably be black and not fun and hip like yours.
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Fall is blazer season, so that’s perfect timing! And um, there’s NO UNIVERSE in which you can be described as “not fun and hip”, so, you’ll be killin’ it in your chic black blazer!
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Ugh, that blue neoprene is so good. I really want to make a Morris, just need to find the time and the right fabric! I’m hoping Jen does a fabric round-up because I don’t have great local fabric sources.
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I bet they still have the neoprene at Mood… you could call the store! But it’s a bummer that there aren’t good stores near you. 😦
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You’ve got me wanting the pattern. I like the idea of a knit jacket. Love the animal print one. X
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Thanks, lady! It’s a nice alternative to a cardigan!
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I’m really not sure if I like the idea of the Morris on me or not. On the one hand I love blazers and they look great, although I’ve never owned one! And have never made one. But then I’m not sure about the shape of the lapels on me….
But, who am I kidding, seeing awesome versions like yours and others will start getting under my skin soon and I’ll probably succumb…
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Oh, and – I LOVE hemming the sleeves before attaching them. I almost always attach sleeves in the flat, so I press and pin (often I use a spray adhesive or wash-away glue stick too) most of the hem up, attach the sleeve, sew up the side/sleeve seam, then hem. I do the same with skirt hems.
If I’m setting sleeves in, I’ll hem on the machine before attaching
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I can totally see you wearing this! It’s a good way to look a little dressier without feeling dressed up… just realized I’ve worn the same ugly sweatshirt when dog walking every day for at least a week… neighbors must think I only have one shirt!
I’ve never tried a glue stick but it seems like a clever trick! Need to get my hands on one! I’m known to use Scotch tape from time to time instead of pinning! 😉
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That leopard print number is BOSS! In fact, leopard print is pretty much a neutral, right?!
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Leopard is TOTALLY a neutral!!!
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A beautiful blazer, I love that colour! That pattern is beautiful and so wearable, a real wardrobe staple. I think that will be one of my summer makes.
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Thank you, Nathalie! It’s so wearable and would be great for Me-Made-May, if you have time to make one in the next month!
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Ginger you look so pretty and luminous !!! Blue is a perfect color for you. Great job!
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Thank you Raquel! You’re too kind! 😀
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Ooh! I love them both!! Awesome job using up your leftover fabrics, and you know I love the neoprene one. I totally guffawed at the idea that your gold standard for arm mobility is being able to kick some ass!
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Thanks, Sallie! I’d like to think I’m one tough, street-savvy girl, but let’s be honest… I’m just not. 😀
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The blue neoprene one is AMAZING and you rock that color! When I saw that this pattern was drafted with knits/stretch fabrics in mind, neoprene was my first thought. (The leopard one is awesome too! I take a decidedly “Heather B” approach and basically consider leopard a neutral. :-D) I’ve actually never worn a knit blazer before because I apparently live in The Past, but this pattern is calling to me! I am safely aboard the scuba bandwagon but haven’t got any neoprene (they’re similar though…right?), though I am very interested in working with it.
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Honestly, I’m not sure what the difference is between scuba and neoprene! I thought scuba was maybe a little spongier, but I don’t have any confirmation that that’s the case!
I like the “Heather B” approach to sewing… and life! 😀
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Yow! That blue is AMAZING! I’m so glad I don’t live anywhere near the shop selling it because I would have to snatch it all up! The blazers really suit you, and the blue one in particular, very much so – it truly is a very happy Spring blazer!
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I’m kinda hoping that we leave NYC just so I can get my stash under control! It’s awful! 😀
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Ha ha! I’m a little scared as we might be moving to NYC soon and I don’t think I can squirrel any more fabric away! Maybe we could rent a garage to horde fabric in?!
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Go girl! This royal blue is my favourite! At this moment, I am so jealous of everyone who sews with neoprene, but I have so much fabric at home (like tons, TOOONS) that investing into another piece of fabric would be unreasonable! So, yes, neoprene is my sewing envy at the moment:)
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Oh dear, let’s not talk about how much fabric we have! Cause I’m in a fabric hoarding catastrophe situation right now! 😮
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Scuba blazer, I was waiting to hear more and wowwww. I’m not won on the unstructured blazer as I like my jackets to be tailored but I can see the confort potential in this.
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I prefer structured jackets, too, but these are a fun change of pace! 🙂
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wow what an amazing blue, that neoprene looks like the real deal!!!! I love both your blazers
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Thank you, beautiful! They were fun to make!
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I don’t work in an office, or anywhere, right now! So an unstructured blazer like this might not even get worn… but I just love seeing all of them and I know I’d love to make one one day! I kinda want to touch all the knit fabrics though, so it’s especially hard looking at the blue fabric of yours without touching it!!!!!
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Actually I bet you would wear this all the time! It totally works instead of a cardigan or light jacket… nice for days when you’re running around! And I know what you mean about touching knits- you totally need to!
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Pingback: “Magic Our Morris” aka The Grainline Blazer | T H I M B E R L I N A
I love this type of blazer and yours are perfect! It’s hard to choose a favorite between the two. I’m sure you will wear these plenty!
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Thank you, Margo! I’ve worn them both already! 😀
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I love both of them! And very interesting choice of fabric with the neoprene! Oh the sewing community and its endless inspiration! I’ve been eyeing the Morris blazer for a while now! Think it has to be in my spring/summer sewing list!
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I could TOTALLY see you in a Morris! It would really suit you! And man, you’re not kidding about endless inspiration- sometimes I wish you guys would be less inspiring so my queue of sewing projects could shrink to a manageable size! 🙂
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Pingback: Grainline Studio – Morris Blazer | Carly in Stitches
Gimme alllll blazers! I’m so jells of all the gorgeous blazers I keep seeing so I’ve finally bought the Victoria and going to give it a go! I love this blue on you!
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This pattern was meant to be made/worn by you! 🙂 These are great!!!
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Ahhh, thanks, Sally! Will you try this pattern?
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Kept forgetting to mention that your 2 absolutely wonderful Morris blazers helped me decide to give it a go. I thought that if the pattern was versatile enough for both your fabrics, mine would work out. It did. Thanks!
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Pingback: Morris Blazer - Pattern Review - Life on Wallace
I like your Morris Blazers. Both of them look great! I sew mine in olive green with leather sleeves. It is very easy to sew and very stylish.
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