Papercut Patterns Guise Pants!

Hi, guys! Hope you’re all well and enjoyed a lovely weekend! I had a great weekend enjoying the beautiful May weather and hanging out with my visiting in-laws. I even managed to sneak in some sewing and a trip to see Mad Max: Fury Road! How about you guys?

Papercut Patterns Guise Pants | Ginger Makes

Question: do you fear trousers? Even though I love wearing them, I’ve been a little nervous at the thought of sewing them. Welt pockets, a front fly, fit… there’s just so much to think about! But after sewing up two pairs of trousers for my second semester of ladies’ tailoring this spring, I was stoked to take on a pair for myself! So I was excited when I saw the Guise Pants in the new Papercut Patterns collection- I was really hoping to find a pattern for pleated trousers! Katie kindly sent me a review copy for free… thank you so much!

Papercut Patterns Guise Pants | Ginger Makes

The pattern features front pleats and a fly closure, with side pockets and back welt pockets. A unique feature of the pants is the elasticated back waist- I’m not usually very excited about elastic waists as they can look a little too casual, but my waistline fluctuates constantly by a few inches, so it’s nice to have some flexibility there. Plus, I never tuck in my shirts, so you’ll never even see the elastic in the back!

My plan was to make these in a nice soft wool, a pretty mint green, if I could find one, and if I couldn’t, in grey. But somewhere along the way I had the idea to cut into this strange synthetic jacquard from my stash. I bought 3 yards from Chic Fabric ages ago for something like $7/yd, planning to make an Elisalex for a winter wedding, but I didn’t have time and it’s sat in my stash ever since. It’s a pale gold that’s really metallic (hard to tell from the photos), and the wrong side is actually mauve. It smells a little funny when you press it, frays like crazy, and is super scratchy. So maybe not the best choice! But it was really fun to use! The thread, button, and zipper were in my stash, too, and I had *just* enough elastic to make it, so these are a total stash bust! Yay!

Here’s a shot so you can see where the rise sits on me (a few inches below my natural waist).

OK, let’s talk construction. These are a very straightforward sew and nothing was too confusing or difficult. I followed the instructions for the welt pockets and fly and everything went smoothly. One thing I noticed is that Katie refers to “left” and “right” as you’re looking at the garment rather than as you wear it, the way some pattern companies do. It’s clear from the diagrams which side is which, though. There’s a typo on step 7- it should say 3/8″, not 3/4″. And one little thing I did differently from the instructions was to finish the curved edge of the fly facing before doing anything. It’s just easier for me that way. I also finished the hems with seam binding to help control the fraying.

Papercut Patterns Guise Pants | Ginger Makes

As you can see, this fabric is pretty stiff, and these pants would probably look much better in something with more drape. I had to omit the button loops from the back pockets- they were just too bulky in this fabric. It’s kinda funny… in my tailoring class, I realized that I had most success with welt pockets when I chose fabrics that don’t fray easily, but for these trousers, I picked a jacquard that seemed to disintegrate in front of my eyes! Oops!

Papercut Patterns Guise Pants | Ginger Makes

Next time I make this pattern, I’ll add 3/8″ to the lower edge of the waistband facing- Katie has you neaten the waistband edge and topstitch it down from the right side, but I prefer the seam allowance to be folded under. And I will add a bit more room through the ankle- I have been noticing lately that I just don’t have enough room there in almost every pair of RTW pants I own. I could stand to take these in at the side seam a bit, but I was afraid to fit these too snugly since the fabric is so ravelly! I thought I might blow my seams out if the trousers were too fitted!!!

Overall, I really like these pants! I know this relaxed fit isn’t for everyone, but I like to wear this tomboy style and am excited to work these into my wardrobe. I’m thinking I should wear them with a black top, or maybe a classic white buttondown? What do you guys think? I’m hoping they’re not too “mature lady”, as Man Friend described them. πŸ˜€

Papercut Patterns Guise Pants | Ginger Makes

Alright, fess up- are you afraid to sew trousers? If not, do you have a favorite pants pattern? Any you would recommend to me?

114 responses

  1. Thanks for blogging these! I got this pattern for my birthday and have been interested to see other people’s versions. I think your pair would look great with a black top, metallics always look good with black.

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  2. Love these, you’ve somehow managed to make gold trousers look perfectly casual with those sandals and that top. I’ve only ever managed to make a pair with a flat front and no pockets, which I just about managed…

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  3. I’m afraid of trousers, have only made ponti and other elastic waisted. The whole fly/welt pocket/fitting seems very scary. I love these on you, you’d never tell the fabric was so tricky, it looks beautiful.

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  4. I was just thinking of buying this pattern and then I saw this post! They look great and i think the fabric is really cool, they would definitely look good with a black top. The thing I fear most about making trousers is crotches – I always end up having to do crotch adjustments which I’m not good at!

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    • Crotch adjustments are so scary! I need to change the crotch on the Ginger jeans before I make another pair, but I’m not confident that I know how to do it correctly!

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  5. The pants look great. Love the sandals that you’re wearing. You could definitely wear them with black. I would like to make a pair of pants as hard for me to find TRW that fits.

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  6. You look great in those pants. They would look good with black but I like the blue better with your colouring. A blue button down?

    I’ve spent most of my sewing time this year trying to fit trousers, I attended a course, watched about six Craftsy courses and worked my way through tens of metres of muslin and swedish tracing paper.

    I’m just making my first actual pair but very slowly. I don’t seem to want to get to the point where I can try them on. I’ll just unpick that top stitching again…

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    • Ooh, I love the idea of a blue buttondown! I prefer to wear navy since I’m so pale, but I’ve never had a navy buttondown since they look sort of bad with jeans. Now I have an excuse to sew one!

      You should try them on!! It sounds like you’ve put in tons of effort, so I’m sure your hard work will pay off!

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  7. Still psyching ,myself up to try trousers. These are really nice and I like the sound of the comfy elastIc insert. That fabric sounds like a nightmare to work with though!

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    • I definitely can’t recommend the fabric! After wearing these for a bit I’m pretty sure I’ll need to remove the waistband and face it with a softer fabric… it’s just too scratchy as is!

      Are there any patterns in your vintage collection that you’d like to try?

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  8. nope, there are totally not mature lady πŸ™‚ i find them rather cool actually! i love sewing and wearing trousers (funny thing, as i wore only skirts and dresses until last year, but then something changed).. i really like the cut of those trouser!

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    • Thanks Mokosha! I really like all your Burda trousers, but I’ve been nervous to sew any of theirs because I wasn’t confident with construction and needed better instructions. Now I should give them a try!

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  9. These are fab! I had a feeling I would see you rocking a pair of these soon πŸ˜‰

    I reckon pairing with blue or charcoal would work well too.

    Yay for tackling scary trousers!! *high five*

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      • Nah I’m not really a trousers sort of person. πŸ˜‰ If I am, it’s wide legs or flares. Dresses win hands-down though! I’ve got the YoYo and the Sway to make up, trying to decide which one to start with! πŸ™‚ Are you making any of the others? I can totally see you in the Waver jacket!

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        • I’ve got the Sway and I’m looking forward to it! I wish I could make the Waver, but I’ve been banned by my partner from making anymore jackets- I’m hogging up too much of the closet and I can’t stuff any new jackets in there!! πŸ˜€

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  10. It’s not a mature but fancy lady! Come on! In all honesty, I think you need to sew more trousers using this pattern: blue, black, white, red, you name it. They seem to be super comfortable without compromising your waistline fluctuations πŸ™‚ I quite like the Named Patterns trousers. I’ve made 4 pairs so far and did not have any problems, especially with the crotch area πŸ™‚

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    • I really should make more pairs, and I love the idea of red pants! So much fun! I just went back and looked at your Alpi chinos… I like the idea of that pattern, a slimmer, more classic pant, so maybe I will give it a try! I have the Jamie Jeans taped up somewhere but not traced (sigh) so I should probably make those instead, but I’ve sort of lost enthusiasm for that project (I bought the pattern before the Ginger jeans were released, and those are much closer to the style of jeans I prefer to wear).

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  11. Nice one! You wear these so well – and I for one think they would look great with a white button down and those funky sandals.
    I really like sewing trousers, but I keep making the same ones (Burdastyle skinnies) over and over because I made all the adaptations I want to that pattern. I tried pleated ones recently, but I’m not so happy just yet because they seem to add bulk to where I can do without extra bulk. Oh well, I bought coated denim for anothere version of skinnies the other day so I won’t get bored.

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    • If you’ve got a pattern for skinnies sorted, that’s fantastic! And I can totally understand why you (and many women!) don’t like pleated pants. For me, I’m thicker through the middle so the pleats sort of even out my shape, but perhaps you might like them more if you stitched the pleats down a bit to lose some of the volume? I love the sound of coated denim skinnies… so fashionable!

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      • Yes, I tried stitching down the pleats on my jumpsuit and I think that works alright. I just really want to like the type of pleated trousers you made – without the diet πŸ˜‰

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  12. I think this outfit is perfecto! I didn’t really look twice at these pants in the collection, even though I am partial to pleated pants, but I love the metallic and the way you’ve style them really elevates the whole shebang! Nice job on the welties too…

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    • Honestly, these were pretty easy because they don’t require much fitting! Actually, come to think of it, I didn’t change the fit at all and I didn’t even make a muslin (naughty!).

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  13. I am definitely afraid of sewing trousers! I have only made one pair of pants and they were shorts with a fairly loose fit so not much could go wrong. I love these pants on you! I actually had three pairs pop up in my blog reader tonight and I am loving the pattern. Hopefully one day I conquer my pants fear so I can make them.

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    • As far as pants go these are super easy… since they’re elasticized, you don’t have to go crazy with fit! I should probably quit being such a chicken and fit some regular trousers, buuuuut… I’m still kinda scared. πŸ˜€

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  14. Oh my gosh! Metallic pants!! I love these so much! Definitely not “mature lady.” My head is swimming with ideas of how to style these. I hope they’re not too scratchy to wear – they look fantastic on you!

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    • Doooooo it! After seeing your ikat shorts on IG the other day, I want a pair of ikat pleated pants, but I’m a bit worried about matching the print (and by “matching the print”, I mean, avoiding fauxvaries!).

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    • Thanks lady! They’re Nanette Lepore Amazing Wonder Wedges (or some such name)… I waited and waited and waited and got them in a massive sale after summer was over last year!

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  15. Oh man, these are great! They look incredibly elegant. I love sewing pants but I’m always holding my breath a little that my fabric will change the fit too much!

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  16. My fave pattern is the Jeanius! class on Craftsy; usually everyone has a pair of pants that fit and flatter (or at least one of those). I’ve gotten more pants (not just jeans) out of that class than I can name…no wait, I did.
    Curved or straight waistband?

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    • Oh dear, I started copying a pair of jeans for my husband ages ago… they’re still buried somewhere in my UFO pile! Oops!

      Let’s see, a curved waistband probably fits me better? Do you have a preference?

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  17. These look cool! I don’t think everyone could pull of this look, but you definitely can! I love your fabric choice, even if the scratchiness factor isn’t the most comfortable. The metallic shimmer of the fabric really gives these pants a chic vibe – very urban/edgy. Tell Man Friend that he needs to reevaluate his style comments. πŸ™‚ This pattern was a great choice for pants since you don’t have to worry too much about a perfect crotch curve with this looser style. Wear them with pride!

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  18. I love these!! I love the gold fabric too! I think they look great with your black top, but they will probably go with just about any colour too! I really liked this pattern, but I’ve been waiting to see a few versions before I make them! Thanks for your review!

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  19. I’m afraid of trousers but I love this pattern so I might have to overcome that. I like the gold fabric!
    It’s very cool. Also, Mad Max was fantastic πŸ™‚

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  20. I’ve not sewn many pairs, but the ones I have turned out ok. It wasn’t until I read about the horrors of pant fitting online that I became scared!
    Yours look fab, not sure I could carry off the front pleats, but you’re rocking them in gold!

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    • Heeheehee! I never, ever wear skirts- for some reason I never seem to have tops to wear with them, so they just hang in my closet unworn! I’m glad to hear that someone else is able to wear skirts… there are so many fun skirt patterns out there!

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  21. These look pretty awesome! I love the pattern but I have a pretty similar TNT pants pattern, so I’m not sure I’ll buy it. and I love your shoes!

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    • I need to try your Burda pattern! I’ve been nervous of it since the Burda instructions are so unclear (IMO), but now that I feel more confident sewing trousers, I should just do it!

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  22. Bahahaha “Mature Lady” – men always seem to have the most “interesting” comments… Ones that I try to ignore when my husband gives them! These look great on you though! I wasn’t quite sure about the elastic waist, but like you – I never tuck my shirts, so it’s no biggie. I do wonder a bit if you can get rid of pleats (probably!)… mostly because I like the look of these pants, but I don’t know if my roundish middle would look good in pleats.

    And sewing jeans has basically cured me of trouser fears! I’d love to dive into some non-jeans pants!

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    • Men really do say the weirdest stuff! And oddly, my husband’s favorites of my handmades are the most boring things- like, a plain grey pullover. Lame! πŸ™‚

      I bet the pleats could be rotated out. Or you could stitch them down to lose some of the volume! I’m on the lookout for a more fitted trousers pattern, so if I find something cute I’ll let you know!

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  23. I think they’re really cute! I love the metallic fabric. And I think they’d look great paired with any button-down – black, white, chambray. My selfish question is – where are those shoes from?! They’re wonderful!!

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    • Thanks, Sarah! πŸ™‚ The shoes are the Absolute Wonder Wedge by Nanette Lepore. I waited and waited and waited for them to go on sale last year, and snapped them up when they were finally in my price range!

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  24. Ok when you mentioned gold guise pants… I was like… right…
    However! Fabulous!! As you know… these are in my sewing queue. How are they sizewise? I often find Papercut patterns on the large size – or are these ok?

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  25. You know, I REALLY like this pattern, but I already have/have made the Named Alexandria trousers, and they are so similar, I didn’t think it was worthwhile getting this pattern too.

    That said, I like that the front LOOKS like a pair of legit trousers, but it’s still comfy in the back. Cool detail πŸ™‚ Sewing pants has definitely become my Favourite Thing. So good!! πŸ™‚

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    • The Alexandria trousers are such a cute pattern! I was eyeing them up hardcore before I bought this pattern, but I’m so lazy that I hate tracing PDFs so I’m a bit scared off of Named! πŸ™‚

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      • hehe… if it helps, I find they tend to overlap the larger pieces, but the smaller ones you can usually cut out without tracing. Because they only nest two sizes together at a time, you don’t have to print out a bunch of pages either, which is nice πŸ™‚

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  26. I love your trousers and the fabric. My english is not very good but I follow your blog because you sew very well ans you are so smiling! Bravo!! Bises from France

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  27. Your gold pants look very sophisticated – and I am right there with you on the elastic waist, and the pleats. I’ve fallen under the spell of the Named Alexandria pants, which have a fully elastic waistband. But for my next pair, I’m planning on a flat band at the front, to dress them up a bit.

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    • I really like the looks of the Alexandria pattern, and I’ve heard such good things about Named’s trouser drafting! A flat band is an easy way to make them look less sporty- happy sewing!

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  28. I think your fabric choice elevates these so that they’re not at all “mature lady’ (LOL). Your trousers are cute, and I would wear them with a shirt tucked in and a wide belt over all to hide the elastic.

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  29. Cute trousers! I really like the fit and the fabric. I am a fan of the elastic waist and not afraid to tuck shirts in even with that πŸ™‚ And how cool to have a pair of metallic pants!

    I recently made a pair of trousers, but the fabric I chose (looked like linen but it was polyester) wasn’t good at all. Sure it doesn’t crimp, but it feel like wearing a pair of plastic bags on your legs 😦 What was I thinking?

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  30. this is on my queue and the fabric doesn’t make mature ladie at all. Men are so anti fashion, they don’t really understand anything besides the basic. what a shame the fabric looks fab but its a bit fought. Its a good experience and they look so fun to make.

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  31. Sooper cute! God I love a good stash bust, it feels like a ‘free’ project somehow, eh?! Like you never bought those things in the first place. I, too, am shit-scared of making trousers. I’ve made some fairly successful ones in the past, but that was total luck and not because I know anything about how to get a good fit with them. I’ve got to do some research as I’m determined to crack it later this year.

    Thanks also so much for your comment on my ‘Thoughts on Organic Cotton’ post the other day. I was great to read that you also come to same conclusion that I do when thinking about this topic: that we just need to buy and have less stuff, whatever the source or production methods. It’s a shame that you never come across fabric in thrift stores, it’s so rare here too. I reckon organising fabric swaps between sewers is the best way to avoid new fabric purchases and save money whilst actually coming away with something that you WANT to sew with and wear. I have a few lengths of fabric that I don’t even want, but I’ve got them saved for ‘currency’ for when I next go to a swap!

    Zoe xxx

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